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CarolFresia


Technical Editor

Member Since: 12/04/2014

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Round-up: Sewing Books With Patterns Included

These specialized publications provide inspiration, know-how, and the patterns you need to make anything from a wedding gown to a complete wardrobe.

ASDP Quilted Garment Challenge

Take a closer look at the winning designs from the Threads/ASDP Quilted Garment Challenge.

Project Runway All Stars: Season 5, Episode 13 - "Finale: New York State of Mind"

Find out who was named top designer after a grueling, four-day challenge.

Project Runway All Stars: Season 5, Episode 12 - "Prince of Prints"

In this last challenge before the finale, the designers create custom prints.

Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology, at the Metropolitan Museum, New York

The Met has mounted a stunning exhibition contrasting handmade versus machine-made garments.

Video: How to Attach an All-in-One Facing

Discover two methods for installing a facing that finishes the neckline and armhole.

Four Smart Ways to Finish a Facing Edge

In Threads #185 (June/July 2016), Daryl Lancaster teaches the essentials of drafting and installing facings. Learn the best ways to finish those facing edges.

Get Inspired by Art: Design Challenge Winners Revealed

View the original artworks that inspired the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals' latest fashion challenge.

Project Runway All Stars: Season 5, Episode 10 - "Rebel with a Cause"

Fashion and philanthropy go hand in hand when contestants vie for the opportunity to design for contemporary brand N:Philanthropy.

Project Runway All Stars: Season 5, Episode 9 - "A Touch of Style"

"Athleisure" garments are the challenge. Find out who hits a home run and who strikes out.

Fairy-tale Fashion at FIT

Visit this exhibition in person or online to see how fashion can be Grimm, not grim.

Project Runway All Stars: Season 5, Episode 1: "What Makes an All-Star?"

Thirteen designers return to the workroom in New York City, ready to prove they have what it takes to win the design competition.

Project Runway: Junior: Episode 10: "Finale"

An impressive runway show at New York Fashion Week culminates in the selection of the first-ever Project Runway: Junior winner.

How to Sew an Invisible Zipper in a Knit Garment

Stabilize, baste, and take your time sewing for a flat, ripple-free zipper installation.

Project Runway: Junior: Episode 7, "Outfit of the Day"

The designers get inspiration from people on the street for this week's challenge.

Project Runway Junior: Episode 6, "Superstar Clients"

Three cheers! The designers make custom outfits for cheerleaders. But it's not nearly as bad as it sounds.

Project Runway Junior: Episode 5, "Race to the Red Carpet"

The designers pair up to create a scene-stealing evening look.

Project Runway Junior: Episode 4, "A Very Special Guest"

FLOTUS challenges the designers to create a look for the modern girl-on-the-go, to promote education for girls

Project Runway Junior: Episode 3, "Teamwork is hard!"

Simplicity patterns are featured in the season's first team challenge.

Learn to Make a Vintage-Inspired Neckband

In this web extra from Threads #180, find out how to join a narrow neckband to a blouse neckline with fagoting stitches.

Project Runway: Junior: Episode 2, "An Unconventional Car Wash"

The results are impressive when the designers tackle their first unconventional materials challenge.

Project Runway, Season 14, Episode 14: "Finale, Part 2"

Ashley Nell Tipton wins, with a plus-size collection. Kelly Dempsey's 70s-inspired collection comes in second.

Project Runway, Season 14, Episode 13: "Finale, Part 1"

Mentor Tim Gunn visits the designers in their home studios, and the judges get a sneak peek at the collections. Oh, and Tim saves Edmond!

Project Runway, Season 14, Episode 12: Roll Out the Red Carpet

The final four vie for a place at New York Fashion Week. High-fashion looks worthy of Hollywood's most glamorous red carpets are the goal.

Project Runway, Season 14, Episode 10: "Crew's All In"

The "real woman" challenge, and Tim gets [bleeped]!

Project Runway, Season 14, Episode 9: "Make It Sell"

The contestants are wooed by a potential deal with JustFab.com. Use that option very thoughtfully, designers!

Project Runway, Season 14, Episode 8: Broadway or Bust

A hit musical inspires the designers' imaginations

Project Runway, Season 14, Episode 7: Haute Tech Couture

The designers face another unconventional materials challenge,one contestant bows out, and another smokes his way into the bottom three.

Project Runway, Season 14, Episode 6: Lace to the Finish

The designers create lingerie and venture into the disparate realms of bridal, junior, tacky, and S&M.

How to Make a Cowl Scarf

This easy-to-sew, bias-cut scarf always drapes beautifully.

Project Runway, Season 14, Episode 4: Fashion Flip

Three sources of inspiration and a trip to Mood--and a few designers flip out.

Video: What is a Great Fit?

Fit expert and video instructor Sarah Veblen explains what constitutes a well-fitting garment, and how to achieve the ideal fit.

Project Runway, Season 14, Episode 1: "Mad Dash Mayhem"

Project Runway's 14th season starts with kinder, gentler mayhem.

Splashdown! Get Ready to Sew Swimwear

Spare yourself the dressing room experience: Make your own bathing suit this summer, and get as much (or as little) coverage as you like.

Upcoming Sewing Contests: Challenge Yourself to Sew!

These sewing contests are fun, inspiring, and guaranteed to improve your skills.

Tiaras and Jewelry and Hats--Oh my!

Western Costume, the source of Threads' featured back cover garments, houses a unique collection of clothes, costumes, and to-die-for accessories.

How to Sew for Your "Closet Orphans"

The shoes fit...but what do you pair them with? Sometimes a beloved but hard-to-work-with accessory is the best inspiration for a sewing adventure.

Sewing Machine Features You'll Really Use

Find out what earns a sewing machine top marks in the eyes of the Threads staff.

Book review: Women in Clothes

How does fashion define, dictate, or declare who you are?


recent comments

Re: Tapering or Widening Pants

Thank you to those of you who noted a discrepancy in the illustration labels. You must ADD 1 inch to the back.

For those who are wanting to taper the legs on ready-to-wear pants, the instructions here don't really apply entirely, as you can't make separate adjustments above and below the knee. To taper pants, you can work from about 3 inches above the knee down to the hem. Determine how much you want to remove from the total hem circumference , and remove an equal amount from the side seams and inseams to make this reduction. Mark this at the hem, and taper to nothing about 3 inches above the knee.

I suggest pinning the approximate change in and trying on the pants to see how they fit. It's a little hard to see exactly what the final silhouette will look like, because you'll have bulky seam allowances in the way, but you should be able to tell if the alteration causes fit issues at the upper part of the pants. You may not be able to make an extreme adjustment (e.g., no skinny jeans from palazzo pants!), but a couple of inches should work fine.
Carol Fresia
Threads, Senior Technical Editor

Re: Video - Fitting: Key Pattern Adjustments

Hi, Topstitch.
The fitting problem Judith shows on the T-shirt is actually just incidental--she commented on it because the model happened to be wearing a purchased top that showed a fit problem through the shoulder wrinkles.

The adjustment she demonstrates is to a different design, a basic dress pattern. On the dress pattern, the shoulder slope needs to be raised. If she were working with the t-shirt pattern, the slope might need to be lowered, as you note. (In reality, on a RTW garment like that it would probably be easiest to just pop a thin shoulder pad in on the model's lower shoulder, to even the shoulders.)

Sorry for any confusion!
Carol Fresia
Threads Senior Technical Editor

Re: Great Patterns for Double Gauze

I'm glad it was helpful. I found another pattern--Butterick 6409--which I plan to make, using some wonderful teal double gauze from Shannon Fabrics.

Re: Design a Rolled Collar

Hi, Claudia,
I would make a mark about 4 or 5 inches along the shoulder seamline on the front and pattern pieces, and overlap the seams using those points as the "seam ends." Use the guidelines in the article for determining how much to overlap the seams. You'll need to make a test collar and see how it looks, adjusting it to get the effect you want.

Different fabrics create different looks, too, so much of this process is done by experimentation. Enjoy!
Carol Fresia
Threads Senior Technical Editor

Re: Video: Sheer Trims - Suspended Feathers

Hi, Marjeanb,
Surprisingly, the feathers can be washed, but don't do it by machine. Clean the garment by hand, gently. Don't roll or wring it. Once it's washed, lay it on a towel, place another towel on top, and press gently to absorb excess moisture. Then lay it flat to dry.

I'm not sure how feathers would respond to dry-cleaning. You'd have to test them, I think. The greater concern is to avoid crushing, crumpling, or folding the feathers, and I think you'd have the most control washing by hand.
Carol Fresia
Threads Senior Technical Editor

Re: Inspired by "Simple Stitches, Complex Design"

Gorgeous work! I'm going to notify the article's author, who will be delighted to see how you've been inspired.
Carol Fresia, Threads Technical Editor

Re: Zipper Basics: Sliders and Stops

You can purchase new zipper stops (Google "zipper stops"), but you'll have to use a metal one on plastic zippers. Joann's sometimes has a "universal" zipper repair kit in the notions aisle; this may include pieces that fit the zipper you're shortening.

Carol Fresia, Threads Technical Editor

Re: Book Review: Mademoiselle: Coco Chanel and the Pulse of History, by Rhonda K. Garelick

This tip is at the following URL:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/37780/tip-make-your-own-silicone-tape

In future, try posting questions to our forums, which we check regularly. We don't always keep up with comments to blog posts, especially if they are unrelated to the topic of the post.

Re: How to Create a Draped Cowl Neckline

Hi, Karen74. In step 7, the illustration is showing the "after" view--after the pattern has been trued, and I think this is where your confusion lies. If you follow the instructions through step 6, you'll have a pattern that's got jagged edges where the cut-and-spread sections extend beyond the center front line, and the shoulder and armscye seams won't have smooth curves, either. All you need to do is use a ruler (straight or curved, depending on the line you're drawing), and redraw those edges to make them either straight (for the center front), or smoothly curved (for the shoulder and armscye). After this, your pattern should look pretty much like the one shown in step 7.

Be sure to fold down the cowl facing on the fold line before doing this, so the facing shape matches the cowl portion exactly.

I hope this helps! We'd love to see your top when it's completed--I encourage you to post a photo in our gallery.
Carol Fresia

Re: Video: How to Attach an All-in-One Facing

Hi, Helen,
To check the fit, you'd need to make a muslin before sewing the final garment. You could try on the garment without the facing and adjust the side seams, shoulder seams, and armholes as needed, but you'll have to be sure to make exactly the same changes to the facing before attaching it. I find that a little fussy to do, and prefer to make a muslin--even if it's a quick one of just the upper part of the bodice--so I can adjust the pattern before cutting the "real" fabric.
Carol

Re: Silk and Embroidered Tulle Couture Dress

This is stunning! What a lovely design, and the fit is amazing. Getting a good fit with a back opening like this one can be a challenge. Thanks for posting.

Re: Tiaras and Jewelry and Hats--Oh my!

Haldis, they aren't really open to the public, alas, although you might be able to visit the research library. Check their website for contact info. It does seem like a dream destination, doesn't it?

Re: How to Sew for Your "Closet Orphans"

I like that idea. I think it would work well--though very differently--in an outfit with some pattern. There, however, it wouldn't get all the attention!

Re: Sewing Machine Features You'll Really Use

SoCindySew, I, too, really like a machine with good lighting. It doesn't seem all that long ago when I thought needle-threaders and task lighting were for "old ladies." Well, I was wrong! I am not an old lady, but I definitely appreciate features that make it easier to see what I'm doing, and my sewing results are visibly better.

Chelosunny, congratulations on the machine upgrade, but also on getting so many years of use from your Elna!

Re: Video: How to Sew a Welt Pocket Opening

Thanks so much for your question, Marysia. Judith is on a well-deserved vacation, so in her absence I’m happy to address your query.

The welts shown in this video, from Simplicity’s Threads 1168 pattern, are cut on the lengthwise grain. But you can cut a welt on any grain you like: Men’s suit jackets typically have them cut on the cross-grain, so that stripes or plaids can be matched to the jacket front above and below the pocket. A bias welt in a patterned fabric obviates the need to match the pattern, while providing a pretty design detail.

If you do choose to cut the welts on the bias, you don’t have to stretch and press. Instead, rely on a good, stable fusible interfacing to support the welt fabric and to eliminate stretching and gaping on a bias-cut welt. You could stretch and press the welts before pocket construction, in order to reduce the amount of stretching or distortion that may occur during wear. However, if you do so, you’ll change the size and shape of the welt (they’ll be longer and narrower), so you will need to experiment with cutting them wider than desired, stretch-pressing, and then recutting to size.

Carol Fresia