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Profile for Claire_Shaeffer - Threads

Claire_Shaeffer

Claire Shaeffer, Palm Springs, CA, US
contributor

An internationally recognized expert in design and construction techniques for haute couture and ready-to-wear. She is a designer for Vogue Patterns, a frequent contributor to Threads and Vogue Pattern Magazine, and the author of numerous books, including Couture Sewing Techniques, Sewing for the Apparel Industry, and Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide. She was the consultant for couture construction for The Museum of the City of New York's online exhibit, Worth & Mainbocher. She frequently uses her large collection of vintage garments for inspiration and research when writing and designing.

craft interests: fashion, sewing, fashion history

Gender: Female

Member Since: 08/02/2012

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Sew an Unexposed Zipper

This couture technique makes a regular zipper appear stitchless.

A Visit With a Savile Row Tailor

When I was in London recently, I visited tailor Richard Anderson. Here's a behind-the-scenes look at his workroom and a walk through his method for matching plaids.

Prevent Bias-Fold Neckline Edges from Stretching

Claire Shaeffer shares a couture technique for stabilizing the edges of surplice and V necklines.

More Haute Couture from the Ebony Fashion Fair

Here are more images of the exquisite designs found in the Ebony Fashion Fair museum exhibition.

How to Add Calvin Klein Details

Sometimes the difference between an ordinary garment and a designer’s ready-to-wear is a few well-chosen but simple details.

How to Interface Jackets: Lessons from an Yves Saint Laurent Garment

Claire Shaeffer explains how to have your tailored jackets hold their shape for decades by creating interfacing inspired by French designer Yves Saint Laurent.


recent comments

Re: YSL Mondrian dress

Congratulations! Your dress is fabulous!Claire

Re: Prevent Bias-Fold Neckline Edges from Stretching

Lady A, yes, when you press, you try to remove all of the stretch. I also do the same on lengthwise strips.

Re: Prevent Bias-Fold Neckline Edges from Stretching

Hollibelle,
I also save selvages of lightweight fabrics. Many years ago, I had a large bunch hanging on a pegboard in my sewing room. My husband came in, looked at it, and asked if I wanted him to throw the bunch away.
Needless to say, I told him, "no thank you."

Re: Prevent Bias-Fold Neckline Edges from Stretching

Seams great to finish seams--
I'm not a big fan of Seams great and other bindings as a seam finish unless the fabric is heavy or bulky. On lightweight fabrics, the binding may show on the right side.

My first choice is overcasting by hand but because it requires a lot time, that's not practical. I've seen zigzag finishes on some couture garments. Experiment with this the width and length until you can get a nice flat finish. I would start with a w,2-l,2.

Re: Prevent Bias-Fold Neckline Edges from Stretching

LadyA, yes, you stretch the bias and press it stretched.
Karen, I usually sew with a blindstitch instead of a running stitch because it's much easier to sew without getting dimples on the outside.
The bias is place on the foldline and so are the stitches.