Here's another fun technique in line with the cartridge pleat above. I've found it on nearly all dresses of the 1825-1840 time period. It's the way in which a gown's skirt is gathered and joined to the bodice. The top of the skirt is folded over 2-4 inches. a row of 1/4" running stitches is made about 1/8" from the folded edge. Next, another row is run 1/4" below the first with the stitches following the same spacing. As the two threads are drawn up the cartridge pleats are formed, but here's the difference: The pleats are attached to the inside of the bodice! When the gown is worn, the skirt is hinged on these stitches and it is pushed out and over the hips adding great fullness to the skirt. Very cool.