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If they are planning on looking at the construction up close, I hope they will give the designers a bit more time so that they can do proper finishing of their outfits.
I agree that blind judging (not knowing who the designers are) is a very good thing.
I think this one is Michelle's to lose. Her stuff is edgier than I personally like or would wear, but it is more interesting to consider than Stanley's. She was quite right that Stanley should have arrived totally prepared.
I agree that Patricia will not win - there is no way Nina will permit that to happen, no matter how much Heidi likes something Patricia makes. It was exceedingly obvious that Nina isn't interested in something other than New York/European centric chic. That cape with the horsehair is beautiful, but Nina won't admit that horsehair is an acceptable material to work with. Nina also made it very clear during the wearable art challenge that she doesn't like wearable art, and that is what Patricia's strength is.
The other problem with Patricia's stuff is that, overall, her clothing is not generally form-fitting. This is fine if you have a very straight figure, but if you have any natural curves, just about everything she has designed added weight visually, no matter how interesting it was to look at. (The duct tape dress didn't, but then again, she didn't design the bodice which was form-fitting.)
I agree that she is an incredible textile designer. All of her fellow competitors agree with that.
I have always been intrigued by the sacque dresses of the mid to late 1700s and how they were assembled.
If you bring in designers with very limited experience in sewing menswear and then give them too little time, what do you expect will happen? Then you give them models with seriously non-standard measurements to work with? Sorry, Heidi and Project Runway staff - this was a self-inflicted injury and is 80 plus percent on the PR staff. Especially since I don't think the designers have had to construct a traditional blouse or shirt yet this season, and I suspect that only Stanley has done one in recent memory.
I make dress and western shirts for my husband fairly regularly - there are a lot of the tricks of the trade I do not know, but I have the routine down pretty well - it takes me about 4.5 hours per shirt from a commercial pattern that I do not have to alter without a flat foot and hand sewing the buttons. For this challenge, I would have used white ring snaps (the kind you see on toddler's clothing) instead of buttons and band collars instead of two piece if you are skipping neckties, and used a serger instead of flat felling, and could probably have the cutting and construction done in 10 hours for the 3 shirts - but that doesn't include the time to draft the pattern.
Patricia should have done a woven vest front with turned tubes attached to a base fabric, which would have taken less time and would look really interesting, especially if she bar-tacked every 3 or 4 intersections instead of sewing down every single stripe. Constructing the vest itself once the fabric was done would take probably 30 minutes max. A second vest front could have been done with a stripe fabric and laying the pattern on the bias for a chevron effect and to emphasize the oversized shoulders - once again with a hidden placket behind the center front to put velcro or snap tape on.
For the pants, I would have constructed something more like the pants that basketball and volleyball teams use for warm ups - they have a deep placket and snap up the side. If you made the pants that way with a fake fly in the front, you could do the fitting to pin darts in the back and a couple of pleats in the front to bring the waist in, and then attached the waist band to the front and back as separate pieces snapped at the sides. These are costumes, they have to look like a suit, but they don't have to be constructed exactly the same way.
There have been so many wonderful duct tape designs for prom dresses over the years - http://duckbrand.com/promotions/stuck-at-prom that it is surprising that Project Runway hasn't done this challenge before.
I thought that the textile Patricia created was very interesting, but I really disliked the way the skirt collapsed on itself in front - I would have preferred a more rounded silhouette for the skirt front.
Unfortunately Patricia was right about the praying mantis - the model's legs were too thin for that skirt and the skirt front looked like it was only 3 inches below her crotch.
I personally liked the dress Stanley and Layana did best, without the bow, but then again, I am partial to fuller skirts, but I quite understand why they came in second.
I firmly expect to be helping my 12 year old daughter make her prom dress from duck tape in the future.
I thought giving the students 20 percent of the vote was a nice touch - the score was like having a fifth judge. The one thing I came away from the show with was that Nina Garcia doesn't know too many teenagers - she wants "young" fashions, but teenagers are all over the place in their tastes in dress, and she is not willing to buy that many of them do really want long dresses - Kate was right in that regard.
My 11 year old has started watching Project Runway with me - and has definite opinions on what she is seeing. She is also doing some basic sewing these days.
I thought this was a wonderful challenge - although the twist was not really needed - designing children's clothing presents a very different set of challenges, and the stress of coping with the dolls was enough extra challenge. Since we haven't seen a menswear challenge yet, designing for children is a good idea. I think Dmitri's outfit was adorable. If Elena had done her pants in pink to match the shirt, or used the pink and navy stripe she started with for her first pants/leggings, I think she would still be there - that jackets was wonderful. I didn't like Christopher's dress design - I kept thinking about all those flowers being snapped on - which means they would come off in the wash, and I don't like the idea of the raw edges of the flowers on something that is going to get washed a lot.
me - I will leave the linen, grayed jade, and that yellow green very much alone - I can certainly have fun with the rest of it - I refuse to wear anything in the beige family if I can possibly avoid it, and if I do have to wear it, it's because I need khaki pants or skirts for some reason. I don't like grayed greens for the most part, and that yellow green looks horrible on me.
I started with a knee operated machine and then moved to a foot pedal machine, so I might be willing to try a hand controlled machine - however, I agree with Serral - for bulky stuff it would probably be difficult - I make blue jeans and also do machine quilting - those are the projects I would test this on - but I suspect that freehand machine quilting would be easier since the feed dogs are not driving the fabric
I absolutely loved Dmitri's jacket - if you go look at the extended video showing the judge's critique, you find out that those pieces are sewn to a very fine mesh to hold them in place, and he used the same fabric at the bottom of the skirt - your photo caption is incorrect, it is not piping. I would love to see the inside of that jacket to see how the mesh was finished into the lining.
Certainly the choice of special judges was appropriate - I don't think Anya made anything out of solid colors if she could find a print instead, and while I don't like Mondo's stuff that I saw on All Stars, he does know his way around fabric design.
something that will actually fit me
This is my first season to watch, and the first conclusion I have come to is that most of these people flunked playing in the sandbox peacefully with others somewhere back in kindergarten.
I also am reminded why I pay so little attention to fashion - I have seen very little that I could see myself wearing - I have way too much curve below the waist to wear straight sheaths or worse yet, mini-skirts.
It was very obvious that the team captains each picked their favorite to work with as their first choice and that the remaining 3 were going to be ignored no matter what. I was pleased that Viktor seemed to let Josh C have a say in what their group did. I really liked Victor's leather jacket - that was fun and beautifully made.
I entirely sympathize with Burt this week, but he should have kept his mouth shut on the runway - he is certainly old enough to know better than to say "I told you so" out loud - living (in this case, designing) well is the best revenge. Since Burt has won a challenge, and chose not to bother with the pet store (which was certainly his perogative), I would say that he is way ahead of Anthony Ryan at this point. His top was certainly interesting and wearable.
Anya's dress was fun from the front, but that back zipper should not have been seen in public or private - that is just plain tacky looking - an invisible zipper would have been a better choice, but would definitely be above her sewing level, leaving yet another thing for Becky to sew. Josh was quite right about the pop color. However, anyone who ever wants to work with or for him should watch this episode and then take a job somewhere else.
The judge's comments about Josh M's "leadership" were unfortunate - this was a team design collaboration - and Becky was a part of that team. Using her as the designated sewer is fine in a professional workroom where she is hired for that purpose - that was not the reason she was there...
Every book from V&A I have ever seen has been absolutely gorgeous whether or not you you sew. This looks like it will have plenty of pictures to help costumers get the corset curves in the right fashionable shape for whatever period they are working on. This is the hardest area to get correct for period costumes - outerwear is much easier to get right.
The oldest fabrics in the stash date back to the mid 1980s when I worked part time at a fabric store - I generally limited myself to bringing home no more than 1/3 of each paycheck in fabric. However, I have never had the luxury of buying on spec - I always knew what the fabric was intended for - some was for business attire, but I haven't had a job that needed business attire in 20 years; some is for square dance clothing, but I have gotten a lot of used clothing that I have altered instead; some for maternity clothes; etc.
There have been a few projects that have been thrown away over the years but not many - generally a project gets set to one side in favor of a more urgent project, but I do come back to them; including some children's clothing that my girls outgrew before they were finished - once they were finished they got put in the bin of clothing for eventual grandchildren, along with all the clothing and costumes I made that my daughters and my sister's children have gone through that are still intact.
My husband is now after me to make him a proper frock coat to go with his favorite coachman's hat that he bought in Old Salem, NC - and of course, finding a pattern is only the beginning of getting it right - this is a fun period to create garments/costumes for, but finding the right menswear is harder than finding women's patterns
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