This is a somewhat fiddly thing to do, but the jacket will sit perfectly if you take the time.

Another thing that you'll see on vintage garments is a bias-cut undercollar. Instead of cutting two identical collar pieces and sewing them together, the bottom collar is cut in two pieces on the bias and stitched to the garment before the upper collar and facing are added together. The roll on a collar put together that way will always be perfect. You'll never need to mess with pressing it into shape.

It's an easy thing to do for any pattern that calls for a rolled collar, but especially for jackets and heavier fabrics.

I'm with bkinyorkton. That just looks like sloppy finishing. Bias tape that's been folded completely to the inside of the garment, then finished with a single line of top stitching makes for a FAR more professional-looking finish and it's much sturdier.

I would expect to see something like this on cheap t-shirts.

I have made this dress twice for other people. The first time I used white seersucker for the front and red striped seersucker with embroidered cherries for the back and skirt. The second was navy and white. NOW I'll have to make one for myself, because that really is one cute dress.

letson:

I use vintage patterns a LOT. If you want the real thing and are a whiz at altering and re-engineering patterns, try:

- Deb's Recycled Sewing Patterns
- sew-retro.com
- sovintagepatterns.com
-momspatterns.com

All you really have to do is Google "vintage sewing patterns" and there are literally hundreds of sites selling them. Some are more expensive than others, of course, because there are people who collect uncut/like-new patterns. If you find a pattern you like from one of the larger manufacturers and you want to find another size, just Google the pattern number (say, "Simplicity XXXX), and you'll find other sellers that have it.

There are companies that do vintage reproductions of old(er) patterns as well. The three that I've bought from are:

- folkwear.com
- decadesofstyle.com
- evadress.com

The last two are excellent sources. Their patterns are clear, well printed on heavy paper (not tissue) and the ones I've made have come out perfectly. I haven't bought anything from the Folkwear people yet.

I know how to DO all of that fine needlework, but I just can't sit still that long any more. My great-grandmother was able to embroider fabrics so that both sides looked identical. She taught me, but what a terrific amount of work. I can see why couture clothing is so expensive!

Sorry, but I forgot to mention something in my earlier post. Cutting a pattern with that sideways vee is also one of the best possible ways to alter a bodice or blouse for someone who's long-waisted. All you have to do it add space vertically rather than horizontally.

The problem with the way most patterns are set up is that they make a straight line horizontally at waist level for lengthening and shortening. If someone is taller than average, then everything changes and adding length has to happen along the entire pattern, not just at the waist.

All of the darts need to be lengthened or shifted to keep things in proportion, and people who are tall and thin are usually tall all over, particularly in the upper body.

There's a better way to do that bodice adjustment. Most people, when they need more room for the bust or waist don't want to change the shoulder seam, sleeves or neckline. If that's the case, then try this:

1. Trace the pattern piece you want to alter. You don't necessarily want to cut the original.

2. Lay the it out on a table.

3. With a yardstick, draw two lines:

- One from the side seam at the bottom edge of the garment (if a blouse) or the bottom of the bodice (if a dress), to the center front,

- The other line goes from the center front to just under the armhole.

4. You should have a sideways Vee. Cut the pattern on the vee, and then pull it apart to the measurement you need.

5. If you need more space at the armhole then draw the second line from the center front to the center of the armhole. You'll need to mess with the sleeves or facing, but it's not especially complicated to do that.

This gives you space through the bust without having to mess with shoulder and arm hole seams. If there are buttons/button holes, they won't move - you're just adding some width. The garment will remain in proportion.

Remember that if you need to "buy" more than an inch or so on any garment, you probably want to go up a size. This solution is best for busty ladies.

sashacatgrl2, try this:

http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2960.htm?tab=vintage_vogue&page=1

I'd like to see the first one on a body rather than a jenny. I suspect that it's appeal lies more in the embellishment than the cut.

It's disappointing to see the empire cut hanging on for so long. It flatters virtually no one, particularly in the stiff fabrics used in #2 and #3. Waists are back, kids, let's see some. I've been playing with REAL vintage patterns - far more interesting that what we see here.