There is a pretty large part of my family that has served or is serving in the military. Every one of them puts themselves out into danger every time the are deployed or go on patrol. Every one of them has a story, has endured things that people shouldn't have to endure and is a hero. I've been fascinated by military uniforms and gear ever since I can remember. I love to see the old items put to good use as part of something new. The soldier who has most been in my thoughts over the years is one I have never met, my grandfather, who fought in the Battle of the Bulge. I think he would appreciate the mend-and-make-do and re-make attitude that transforms old pieces of such terrible times into new and loving gifts.

Thanks for this post. It never even occurred to me that Rit Dye would have a website. I love the Halloween t-shirts they show. They have some interesting ideas.

I don't have an entire costume to post, so I won't post for the contest, but I've been working on some pieces for my grown-up Alice for the Steampunk Mad Hatter Tea Party we are having in my front yard on Halloween this year: http://bythebodkin.wordpress.com/2011/10/27/steampunk-eton-jacket/ I've finished the top hat (which was originally bowler), repaired a granny boot heel and am getting close to being finished with my quick but altered Eton Jacket. I still have to sew on the lapel, make and apply the bias tape, then I just need to tack the turn back cuffs and I'll be ready for Monday!

I love Halloween!

- Rogues of Thread
bythebodkin.wordpress.com

First let me just say "amen."

I don't think I can begin to detail the bad habits I have or used to have! The upside to your post is the reminder to step back from your projects occasionally. Consider the process you go through when planning, preparing and executing a project and remember to allow yourself the time needed to complete the project without stress. Giving myself enough time is always the key to a good finished product, while not allowing enough time always results in stress. Written timelines can be very helpful.

One thing I'd like to point out is that, as you get more experience sewing, you can sometimes ignore the pattern instructions. While there are steps that need to be taken to achieve certain results, the pattern is not a sewing bible; think of it more as a learning tool. There are different methods to reach a certain ends (some things can be pleated instead of gathered or there can be old hand-sewing versions of similar, more modern, techniques). Just because you saw something in an old sewing manual, doesn't mean it is a useless technique and techniques learned from one pattern can sometimes be applied to another.

- Rogues of Thread
bythebodkin.wordpress.com

@Teaf5 - I want to see photos of that! I threatened to make a friend, who is 6'4", a pink bunny costume. He said rude things to me, but his wife got a kick out of it.

I've been enjoying making hats lately. I just finished a Bowler-to-Top-Hat transformation for the Steampunk costume I'll be wearing on Halloween to the Mad Hatter Tea Party we're having in my front yard. http://bythebodkin.wordpress.com/2011/10/11/top-hat-transformation-diy/

- Rogues of Thread
bythebodkin.wordpress.com

I agree with everyone on the talent pool, the cattiness of the judges and the drama, drama, drama between the contestants. It's too bad that the show has turned that way. I hope they can step it up.

I also agree with the comments about the fact that the judges should look at the construction. I think I've commented about that in the past. That said, the judges are looking at things as they come down the runway and in a way, the construction is irrelevant as far as practicality and linings are concerned. The judges don't see that. What they do see is style, fit and the kind of construction that leads to good garment shaping. Yes, these things are related, but they don't ask the model to get out of the garment any more than they rip apart a jacket to see if a lining/interlining/etc is put in correctly.

While it is a shame that they don't know that Anya's model had to be cut out of the dress, she is still bringing a point of view that no one else this season has. Sometimes those who have only a general idea of what they are doing come up with the most creative things. I thought her design was by far the most interesting of the night and of her own pieces.

It's a shame that those with the hard-learned skills feel cheated every time Anaya gets praise, but this isn't only a competition about skills; it's about creativity as well. If Anya makes it to the final three she'll have to step her skills way up and quickly to have a shot at the win.

- Rogues of Thread
bythebodkin.wordpress.com

Wow - what an archive. I would be so excited to have this. I'm always looking at the listing for previous issues, wishing they were new again. (I hope I win, I hope I win, I hope I win...) =)

bythebodkin.wordpress.com

Why doesn't like "Quick Stuff to Sew"? Just imagine how quickly you could turn out an interesting new project with this magazine and fabric from your stash!

I can see zip ties working very well for an Elizabethan corset. The multitude of bones or other stiffener in a Ren corset creates a garment that is semi-stiff all over, spreading out the stress more evenly.

I'm all for using materials in unexpected ways! I use large grommets from the hardware store on corsets. They are just as heavy-duty as the ones usually used on a corset that is made to hold up to a lot of wear (unlike the tiny grommets), but are faster to get a hold of and less expensive (not that grommets are that expensive, mind you).

The suitability of substitute materials all depends on the the requirements of the garment. If you're making doll clothes or a one time wear Halloween costume, zip-ties may be an excellent choice, but if you want to wear the corset again or have it give you shape, you will find that the "bones" bend in unpleasant and permanent ways. I've had to rebone store bought corsets with 1/4" spring steel bones for people. Of course that was a temporary fix as those corsets are not made with coutil or often even canvas or duck and soon lost their shape anyway.

Farthingales is an awesome resource for all corset making supplies. Their blog has great tips and shows some beautiful corsets in the making.

Rogues of Thread
bythebodkin.wordpress.com

Nice clear tutorial. I love seeing on-the-fly sewing techniques. It's one thing to create a garment from a pattern and another thing to make the pattern pieces. It gives you a better understanding of how things go together and the more you do it, the more cleanly things do go together. Thanks!

- Rogues of Thread
bythebodkin.wordpress.com

I've been looking at this book for a while now; it's definitely on my to buy list so I hope I win! I would like to learn more about advanced seaming and darting to give a garment structure and shape.

This was an interesting and tough challenge. I'm always amazed at the way the designers create something new on the fly with minimal direction, but to have your (very picky) client there saying "no, no, no," through out your process must be nerve wracking. I thought that the judges were pretty harsh this time, particularly Joanna Coles. Her comments made me realize how nice the judges are usually being (though not always). Fashion gets a gut instinct reaction on the runway and many of these designs would be instantly dismissed under normal circumstances.

Contrary to the judges opinions, I really didn't like Viktor's dress. I don't like the sleeves, though that is more personal taste than anything. I can certainly see others wearing the top portion. What I didn't get at all was the weird seam on the front of the dress, over the lower belly. Are we trying to hide a little tummy pooch? Why else would you add a seam that goes from left to right and pulls the fabric out and away from the body there? It was just not attractive to my eye.

I think if Anya had won there would have been a huge ta-do over someone helping her with her collar. I'm amazed at her quickly learned skills, but I don't know the show's rules for getting help. It will be interesting to see what happens with her.

The thing I've been wondering the whole time I've been watching the show is, are the garments as nice on the inside as on the outside? They never talk about lining unless the fashion fabric is a sheer. Do they get points for internal construction or is it only what shows on the runway that matters?

This turned out beautifully! That skirt looks great. I'm sure the girl was the envy of all her friends.

This design looks lovely on you. I love the idea of making it reversible. You can see the red peeking out at the neckline on the black side, which, though I'm sure it was unintentional, is a nice touch.

lovely!

Great post! Thanks for sharing your "happy accident." Your brim shapes are lovely. I have yet to work with a sheer brim, but you're giving me ideas. I love the black and white hat as well.

Here is a different way to go about it: This reminds me of a "dress" that I found in the 5ft tall pile of random costume pieces in the basement of the theater in high school. We called it the "octopus dress." I can't imagine it's original use. It was a black crepe tank top and shorts one piece. The tentacles were attached at the waist in the same seam as the shorts and it had a zipper up the side. The undersides of the tentacles were pink and they were long enough to drag on the ground. Very Ursala from The Little Mermaid. You can wire the tentacles and make the hat out of felt. Good luck!

I would love to see rich fabriced fall coats in interesting hues, classic styling and interesting details.

Excellent tool and technique. I will be passing this post on to a friend who will either be happy to see it or upset because her pleating project is already finished.

Kenneth,

Thank you for this post. It's nice to seem someone go through the steps on a re-purposing in both words and photographs. Your post is both inspiring and instructional. Though the fabric is not to my taste I do like the finished garment. Thanks again!