I would rather see just a split than using a different fabric for a pleat. In my opinion it looks patchy. Like you didn't have enough fabric. I would never use this technique.

As for the correct sleeve head. I tried using a purchased sleeve head but found that using a 1" doubled over (sleeve head fabric) and sewn directly onto the whole arm sye gives the sleeve more stability and eliminates the wrinkles sometimes found in the sleeve at the shoulder.

I would love to win this book to add to my collection of Claire's other books. I have at least 5. Some with her autograph. I took a class at her Palm Springs location and would love to return for a refresher. Thank you Claire for all your usefull instruction and tips for couture sewing.

The mitered corner can be used on a sleeve vent. Thanks for showing this technique. I can used it when shortening men's or women's sleeve vent. The fact that you say that it doesn't need to be clipped out to lay flat is a good idea.

I read the instructions twice and I don't see where you tell how much to spread the pattern for more bust space. Possibly the measure of difference between the pattern measurement and the actual bust. But some people have small backs and larger in front. I guess you would have to actually measure the pattern for the answer to that.