Dear Mr. King, I have been sewing for my sister, who has survived breast cancer - but due to infections has abandoned the replacement of the removed breasts. She has also lost a good deal of weight. In trying to fit her, the bust part is no problem - I just do away with darts. But her upper arms are: right 15.5" and left 17". Since she's only 39.5 around her chest, I have to enlarge the arms of a size 16 or 18 (depending on the manufacturer). Although I've worked out the problem with set in sleeves, I'm at a loss when I come to dolman/raglan sleeves. It appears to me that the gusset may be the answer to the problem, but I want to do it so it doesn't appear sloppy. Suggestions?