Kenneth - what a cool jacket! And what great techniques to learn from this piece. I never thought about the fabric "shrinking" after the buttons are added, so if I want to embellish something in future projects, I'm adding that bit of info to my knowledge and make wider seam allowances. And punching the shank *through* the wool to stabilize the wobble - brilliant. Those are the little touches that elevate a project to a level beyond ordinary.

And while the result may not be to everyone's taste, labeling this jacket with negative adjectives is missing the point. These articles are here for sharing skills, expertise, creativity, knowledge and points-of-view. If you don't like the result, isn't it much more productive to take away something useful from the article rather than dismissing the entire thing as "ugly"…even if it's just learning that brass-button-embellished jackets are not for you.

And yes, you *do* wear it well!

What better way to learn - other than having Louise there IN PERSON! - than to have DVDs which you can stop, rewind, review and really comprehend what's going on and improve your technique. Brilliant, and I would *love* to win the set.
Thanks!

The great SHOWStudio site has a few other patterns to download, including a Yohji Yamamoto top, a cute Junya Watanabe dress and other more avant patterns. It's a great website, lots of reviews on the latest fashion shows too.
Thanks for posting the link to their website!

Throwing in my name for the drawing. I would LOVE to sit and go through this book and get inspired...or daydream anyway!

I swore after last season that I would not watch PR due to Wretchen-gate and I don't miss the show at all, but I do like to scan the comments and view the photos of the creations posted here.

After seeing this week's finale, I'm struck by the amorphous, sack-like garments everyone but Viktor produced. No styling, no shape, no construction to be seen in anyone's line…except Viktor. He, at least, had some nicely-constructed garments that looked as if they might flatter instead of tent. And while lack of of sewing instruction does not necessarily mean you lack design sense, Anya's collection has done nothing to prove that point.

All I know is I'm glad I did not invest my time on the show - this summary more than suffices!

While I'm happy to read everyone's comments and critiques here, I am happy I decided to boycott this season. After last year's finale, I felt I had been duped long enough and said "basta".

This way, I can appreciate the photos of the final designs, read your impressions and thoughts about the challenges and be done in about 10 minutes, vs. investing more time on this show. Although I do miss seeing Tim...

V.

Great review and I'm sorry I missed it. Again. What I find utterly baffling is why I always read about these sewing shows AFTER they've come and gone. No pre-advertising, no announcements, no email - nothing. I know it's a specialized audience, but I subscribe to a few fabric / sewing resources and I've not seen anything about shows in my area (San Francisco) or Puyallup. In this world of email spam all-day-every-day, I don't understand why I don't get any notice of these shows from anyone, including the sewing machine dealer where I just bought my serger. I'd love to support this hobby as much as I can but it's a bit hard when you don't know where and when to go.

I guess I'll have to put it on my 2012 calendar today because I probably won't hear about any sewing shows next year until they're over.

OK, back to more positive things, like Kenneth King's lesson. :o)

Well, I had made that "Alec Baldwin-type remark" that if Mondo didn't win I'd not watch PR again and I'm sticking to my guns. I can't fathom *what* they all said to break the tie of who was to win, but it certainly wasn't predicated on creativity, imagination and fresh perspective. Wretchen's "designs" (and I use the term loosely) were elevated because of the styling and jewelry which indicates, to me anyway, that they cannot stand alone. I guess her kowtowing to the egos of Garcia and Kors was enough to vote her the winner.

And while I may not be the ideal demographic for most of the fashions shown on PR, I do know that sending 3 - count 'em! - 3 drab-grey diaper panties down the runway is not high fashion nor fashion for anyone over 2.

Yep, this finale did it for me: no more PR. I'm done.

So...let me get this straight: it's OK for someone to design an all-one-color-as-long-as-it's-black collection (and even win) but Michael C was booted because he used one color that's not black? Seriously? What ridiculously small minds are running this thing?! Michael C should have gone on and Gretchen should have gone home ages ago. Or even Andy if they felt they needed a "token" woman on the team. Sheesh.

Regardless, it's all academic because Mondo is worlds ahead of all of them and if he doesn't win I'll make an Alec Baldwin-type promise and say if they don't select Mondo to win I will NEVER again watch PR. Seriously.

Thank you Susan for sharing this garment. I appreciate seeing the construction of the undersleeve gusset, how the hair canvas is used to support the structure and the impeccable details that make this a fine garment (covered snaps, the loop closure, the perfect pleats).

I love seeing quality craftsmanship, even if it's in a garment I would not make, to see how I might incorporate those touches in my sewing to take it to the next level.

I can just imagine wearing this coat to a fabulous setting like the San Francisco Opera House - it would certainly be spectacular.

Love the technique and will try it on my next narrow hem.

I also agree with coachgrazina - I grew up sewing with Imperial and US measurements but lately have started using metric measures as I'm just fed up with trying to divide 1 5/8 by 4 and so on. Threads has done a pretty good job of providing metric equivalents in parens next to inches but providing them consistently will help us renegades. :o) (I'm still hopeful the US will convert to metric one day. sigh)

Oh I *love* costume dramas just for the costumes and one of my favorites is Marie Antoinette (Sofia Coppola's version). I know, I know - they're totally an MTV version of Louis gowns and menswear but the colors are amazing, the embellishments gorgeous and the overall effect dazzling. The colors remind me of Parisian macarons! Check it out, for the SHOES if nothing else but I adored that movie.

I had the privilege to attend a class taught by Susan and she is the epitome of an excellent teacher: patient, open, good-humoured and so generous in sharing her knowledge and experience. Time flew by even during some rather tedious steps (tying off endless thread tails!). I hope to take more classes from her soon, but until then the experience of learning from her will carry me throughout my projects.

Great article, but what book is everyone referring to? I'd like to know the title so I can look it up. Thanks.