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Member Since: 03/18/2010


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Re: Creating Chemical Cutwork

Hi there, I'm Annie and I've been using and selling Fiber Etch for years! Love it.

Let me see if I can help a bit (maybe :)) Fiber Etch works by completely removing plant fibers such as: cotton, linen, and rayon yarns. If you use a blended fabric - any synthetic, silk, or wool yarns, those will stay creating a gorgeous etched effect that looks almost like it was a part of the original weaving.

If there is any durable finish at all left on your fabric, you're going to have less then spectacular results. Fabric finishes do not allow Fiber Etch to permeate into the fibers of the fabric. It will remain on the top of the finish and simply turn the finish brownish when ironed, not contacting the fabric fibers at all. Washing will not always remove all finishes. So you have to be careful when choosing your fabrics.

Many poly-blend fabrics have finishes & the very colorful cottons have them too.

How to tell about the finish? Unless you're using specifically Kona (quilter’s) Cotton, or fabric purchased with the highest grade: PFP, which means "Prepared for Printing", testing a strip is necessary to ensure it is finish free. Better to take a little extra time and test - then screaming later. Been there - done that.

Secondly be very very very certain that your thread is 100% polyester - including the core. Otherwise you're going to eat through it and be seriously annoyed.

The good folks at Silkpaint sell Fiber Etch by the quart (think of doing lots of devore velvet project), but we offer it in 4oz bottles. The average user can make that last 6 months or more. There's also a terrific book by Iris Lee available (out of print now - but I stocked up).

Oh and if anyone is using a puffy paint product, you can use Fiber Etch with that too.

Hope this helped a bit.

Annie
Wildly Wonderful Wearables
www.wwwearables.com