Actually, for sewing with plus sizes and the difficulty with fitting for narrow shoulders, thick arms, etc. I diligently study any and every article I find to continue to learn.

one of the best suggestions is to go find ready to wear, no matter how much it costs (you aren't buying it) and take your tape measure. Try on things until you find something that you like that fits well. Start by measuring the back top of the armseye to armseye. That will give you a good starting point since tops hang from the shoulder. Many of us plus sizers learned that although we "grew" of course our shoulders didn't. So we attempt to closely fit the narrow shoulder and then the larger arm difference is more emphasized and a struggle to fit For those with thick upper arms (biceps) I would almost bet you will look better with a somewhat extended shoulder. Not the droopy dropped shoulder. my ideal shoulder width is 20" and shoulder pads are a must, but with narrow shoulders and larger arms, a somewhat extended shoulder seam allows the sleeve to come straight down off the shoulder and skim the arm rather than emphasizing the difference. The alteration for the shoulder is easy. I also have to have a two-piece sleeve (I have a standard I use in all garments) because I need more shaping. Otherwise sleeves twist. (How about an article on that also?)

The person that pulled it all together for me was Cynthia Guffey. I spent a day with her and it was well spent as it changed my approach. You don't only want to "fit" your figure, you want to create a pleasing silhouette.

So my vote for articles, more more more fitting; and how about showing the difference in a garment sewn just from the pattern to fit, and one in which alterations are made to show a pleasing silhouette.

I agree with Ginnylynn. Try reading some of Kenneth King's alterations series he's published on Threads. He talks about net gain and loss in garments. It appears that the shoulders are quite extended, which can be ok (and thus the need for the shoulder pads to support the extension) but the back is just too wide starting from about the 1" from the top of the sleeve cap. If you had a fitting assistant there you could pin out the excess folds, tapering to nothing at the sleeve cap, the fold amount would be what you would essentially reduce the back by (by "cutting" each the armhole in farther one-half the amount which would reduce the width.

The other problem with the sleeves; you are a brave lady to take on sewing for someone you can't touch. So many things are not going to be apparent to you in pictures like posture and stance that can affect fitting. I have a problem with sleeves that wrinkle; my lower arms curve forward more than the norm and a two-piece sleeve with some extra length eased in starting at just above the elbow and ending just below is a must for me. I use my own pattern I've drafted and use in every garment and throw the pattern piece away. Even when the sleeve cap is wide enough a one-piece sleeve still twists because I need more shaping.

It also appears from the photo that he may have one shoulder that slopes a little lower than the other (not uncommon)(looking at the photo left side) and you may have to build a little thicker pad to even it out.

Good luck. As I said fitting is difficult enough without trying to do it virtually. One of the reasons that people that routinely have custom clothes made for them have a body double that the seamstress can do most prefitting on.

I have many issues. Problems relating to posture, rounded back from years at a computer, short, heavy upper arms that always require a sleeve cap adjustment and curve forward )one piece sleeves twist); large rear, large abdomen.

Books and tapes are wonderful for reference but nothing is going to beat a fitting garment. Books and tapes give you a starting point and if your issue is minor may even resolve the problem. But if you have multiple problems, look out. Or sometimes you may think the problem is one thing but the remedy you try doesn't resolve it. And to boot, as you get older, your body shifts and changes and weight is redistributed.

The mystery to me is how I can buy good fitting clothes off the rack but the pattern companies are so far off. Jones NY is a huge mfg and other than shortening the sleeves in jackets their clothes fit me very well. Obviously their "sloper" that they design clothes from is close to my actual body. They are a huge, successful clothing mfg whose revenues I'm sure dwarf the pattern companies. Yet the pattern companies never caught on that they're using the same fitting model they were 20 years ago when many of us have gotten larger.

My sewing skills are good; the garment construction isn't the issue, it's the fitting. Once I have that straight I can make the garment. Lately I just buy patterns for inspiration and I might lift a detail or two, but I rely on the patterns that I've perfected so as not to start that whole trial and error thing all over. I'd never get anything made if I didn't.

New show on Bravo, with Iman and Isaac M. Perhaps the magic will be recaptured there. I'm pretty disgusted with Project Runway this season. The drama was just too much.

I couldn't stay up long enough to watch, but woke up briefly to see the rerun (missed the fashions). Woke up right when they were standing on the runway after the show. Saw Andy auf'd; then between Mondo and Gretchen and boy was I shocked when she actually won. I turned the channel in disgust.

I guess I don't get them. Mondo consistently wowed them all season, did Gretchen even win a challenge; for most she was in the bottom, but all of a sudden she's the winner. OK. So I guess the challenges all season don't mean anything. I may or may not even go back and watch the reruns to see what the collection looks like, but they've lost credibility with me.

Show business first, sewing/design second. Maybe because everyone almost unilaterally hated her they felt to award her the prize would be one of those surprise endings they pull off so well in other tv shows. Except I didn't think Project Runway was entertainment first, and sewing/design second but I guess it is.

Oh well, justice. Away from tv with their need to maintain ratings she still has to either get a job as a designer or start her own line and with really talented designers struggling I predict she'll be a has been pretty soon. Mondo, Michael C and others will find a home somewhere doing what they love.

Mondo to win. Who else is there? Sews4fun, you're hilarious. I agree. I guess if they've managed to put something cheap out there that sells commercially that makes them an expert. Andy's green dress kind of intrigued me but is something that I think a skilled sewer could make with some uninterrupted time and the right fabric. how can Mondo not win. Huge distance between him and everyone else. You have to admit he does have a unique eye and way of mixing colors/patterns that make a garment interesting. I'd think never in a million years would that work but he mostly is able to pull it off.

Maybe the reason they can't get more "real" designers to judge is that they're off tending to their own business and too busy to spend time judging a show where the winner of each challenge often ends up being decided for entertainment value rather than the quality or uniqueness of the garment. As I said before, Michael Kors should go spend some time on his own boring line.

Michael C's elimination was truly heart wrenching, so difficult I almost couldn't watch. Kind of like a car accident where you want to avert your eyes but you keep looking anyway. My heart goes out to him, he survived so many mean spirited comments but near the end of the shows he was actually able to hug Gretchen. The only hugs I would have been able to give her by that point would be involving a head lock.

Well, on to the finale, I agree I like seeing what they have in progress and the eventual show where they can really show what they're about and their vision rather than the faux mostly designed for entertainment challenges.

Gretchen does have a voice. Unfortunately most of it is her mouth and not design talent. And I like sportswear which is supposed to be her forte'. I certainly can't afford nor buy couture clothing, but I've seen more "wow" in department store clothes. Things that I want to immediately purchase or at least replicate. None of her stuff has that appeal for me.

I can agree with others that this season has been sorely lacking in talent. So why do we keep watching? We keep hoping that somewhere buried in there someone is going to come up with a wow garment. I, at least used to see things that really made me want to be able to look at the garment to study it. This season though it has really been more personality driven than creative. How many times has Heidi said "so (fill in the blank name) how do you feel about that? It's usually after someone (usually Gretchen or when Ivy was still around) has insulted or trashed someone. What does that have to do with design and creativity? I thought we were watching a fashion/design show, not a "pile on the insults" show. Unfortunately it's not only the designers, as mentioned, the judges seem to be trying to outdo each other for laughs at the designers expense. I mentioned, I often watch just with the sound off because I want to see the clothes, not listen to nasty comments. Yes, there has always been creative tension between the designers but not at the level it's at this year.

Tim Gunn is the one shining light that they should go back to emulating. He offers constructive criticism, not just mean comments for laughs, guidance, not amusement at others expense.

I don't know if they felt they needed to inject this stuff in to boost ratings since they changed networks, but like many other shows, and perhaps their audience is shrinking, but if they dont' find some better talent or their way again they'll end up going by the wayside eventually.

I think they keep Gretchen just for her snarkiness. Nothing else. I am relieved that Ivy left. I haven't one seen thing that either Ivy nor Gretchen have made that made me go "ooh". Has Gretchen ever won a challenge? I can't think of another reason she would still be on there other than they have someone willing to parade her opinions even though she ends up looking stupid when she doesn't win. One of her earlier comments "it's disappointing that craftmanship isn't as widely acknowledged as I had hoped". Someone can beautifully tailor a jacket or pair of pants but supposedly what Project Runway is all about is the "wow" factor. Well made is nice, but doesn't translate to "wow". Just seeing her makes me almost not want to watch the show.

Actually I agree with an earlier poster. This group more or less lacks any real undiscovered talent for the most part. Some of the earlier groups had designers that made things that you eagerly awaited. Now it's just another parade of fashions, kind of like watching QVC.

Who knows, this may not be on much longer if they don't do a better job of selection next go round. It would be a shame but it seems they've gotten away from their roots.

April's design was a little too punk for me (but to each his own). I really liked Andy's (?) (bathing suit and cover up). I thought it was beautiful, elegant and flowing.

I haven't seen anything that either Gretchen or Ivy have made that I liked. My intense dislike for their personalities probably isn't helping. But interestingly enough, I look at Michael Kor's things at Macy's and I'm not all that impressed with his stuff. So lifetime achievement or not, perhaps he should be spending some more time with his design staff and less sniping at people. It is one thing to critique a garment and another to be just mean. I stopped even looking at his clothes in stores as a result.

I haven't seen very much this season to wow me compared to past seasons. Usually just looking at the final garment is enough.

What has Logan created that was memorable? They must have only been keeping him because they thought he was cute