This is a wonderful article. I have some very stubborn lightweight tafetta that I am using to make a light coat for a summer wedding. Now I know what I have to do to make it look right.
My understanding of 'turn of cloth' is: Your underlining is meant to be a fraction smaller than your fabric to allow for both layers to sit correctly when you have your seam stitched and pressed open. Hope I got that right!!

Congratulations on your new post and I hope you enjoy the journey. I've been sewing for about 35 years but I'm very new to Threads Magazine as it is not stocked in my local newsagent. Your last issue is my first and my first impression was a little disappointing. I had hoped for more articles geared towards the experienced sewer.There are loads of magazines on the shelves dealing with craft-type sewing i.e. quilts, card making etc but very few dealing with the dressmaking end of things. So, I second everything written by Soignee. More techniques,articles on fitting, interviews with experienced tailor/tailoress etc.
P.S.We share the same surname (Tierney). Any Irish connections?