Member Since: 01/08/2009
Hi there, Marysia here( aka Smockerlady,
Threads thank you SO MUCH for approaching the wonderful Jeffrey Diduch to answer my technical query. I have got to know him from his blog some years back and his detailed pictures and description in this article is just perfect.
Thank you for approaching such a well respected expert to help us home sewists out; so very much appreciated.
This article will help so many of us wishing to take on the challenge of making a tailored gentleman's jacket, or indeed a jacket for ourselves that may have this type of welt pocket in the design.
What a fabulous tip from Louise.
Thank you so much for this video tutorial. The final tip is fabulous.
I prefer plain fabrics by choice, but I am just embarking on a project that has patterned fabric..........I thought it was time to be seen in something other than plain colour.
So grateful for this video Judith. Let's hope I do the final garment justice!
Genius solutions from you as always.
Thank you for sharing these tips. Immediately used your technique for a cashmere/mohair/wool skirt I have just completed. As the waist has a spiral boned couture facing your techniques for the position of the fabric loops works beautifully.
Thanks yet again Judith for another inspirational video.
Thank you so much for rectifying this glitch for us all. Just re-visited and downloaded this article.
Marysia, aka Smockerlady.
Just received the email and am trying to download, but it wont? I am a paid up insider and wonder why it wont let me download.............can you help?
Just found your amazing jackets, whilst searching to find information on how to execute a double welt when there is a dart running into it, like this jacket.
Is there an article or video on here. I have been searching everywhere.
So wonderful to see your beautifully made tailored jackets. Total inspiration.
Many thanks for sharing.
Hi there, I would love to enter this competition. My husband bought me my overlocker ( serger) as a Christmas gift two years ago. I have got to grips with threading the machine confidently. However, since then I have simply used it to neaten edges.
The prize would give me the tuition and confidence to unleash all that my overlocker can add to many sewing projects.
I agree with everyone,a brilliant tutorial.
May I ask though, do you cut your welts on the straight grain or bias?? I ask this as I get confused as I have read some books which say on the bias and then stretch press before using, others say cut on the straight grain.
Judith, I know you will confirm which is the best way to achieve the correct finish.
Oh how I wish there could be a Threads road trip over to the U.K!!! Such a huge fan of Kenneth, Susan et al.
Lucky people who are in the U.S.A and can learn from such Masters. Have fun everyone.
I would so adore to win this latest book, or should I say couture class from Claire.
My decision in recent years has been to go for quality and not quantity in my sewing endeavours and I try and learn as much as I can from Books, blogs, threads insider articles etc. I have learned so much through concentrating on couture methods and sourcing the best quality fabrics that I can afford. I wouldn't have been able to make the couture jacket without the guidance of both Claire and Susan; I had the ability to achieve my goal through learning via threads and books and dvds as there are no classes, or even stores in my rural area of the U.K.
How fantastic it would be to win a copy of the couture skirt to complete the "chanel" outfit for my daughter.
Thank you for running this competition and thank you to Claire for offering a copy of what will be a fabulous addition to any sewists library of books.
Hi there Kenneth,
I have so enjoyed watching your video this morning and absolutely adore the technique. I had wondered for a while how to do this, and now because of you sharing I know!!
I guess the pattern is your own design - classical and stylish, the perfect Kenneth D King combination.
Having seen skirts with what I thought were tucks and wondered how you would pattern draft them, this must be the answer.......................make the foundation of the skirt and then complete this method?
How I wished you would visit the UK and give us the opportunity of joining in with your classes.
As usual, a beautiful stylish idea from the Master!!
I have noticed this year in the U.K. interesting shapes in trim on hemlines. Do you think it would look good ( or would it be ott; mind you I am ok with ott as long as its stylish)
on the hemiline of a skirt or dress??
Would love to hear your thoughts as you would come up with the perfect suggestions.
So thrilled to learn of Bunny's win. As an avid fan of her fabulous blog, and also a follower of Threads, it really is an honour and a joy to get to know you and your work!!
The competition was stiff, and as Bunny has said on her blog, all the entries were amazing.
We learn from you all, and because of it we strive to raise our game.
Enjoy the machine Bunny. Hope that you could share some tips with us on your blog about how to use a serger and how to get the best from it. Christmas is coming and I am sure there will be quite a few sewingsista's getting their first ever serger to play with!!
Having made a Chanel Jacket using Claire Shaffers vogue pattern, I totally admire the stunning finish of your jacket. I want to make another jacket that this time around incorporates the collar and try out padstitching.
I adore your pattern and wish I could purchase it. I love the soft shape of your pockets.
Do I sound like a fan!!
Hi there Bunny,
Have been following the making of this on your La Sewista blog and have to say, the pictures showing us the stages highlight all the skills and detailing you put into the construction of this jacket.
You look fabulous by the way!!
Hi there Susan,
What a great tip to try out. I enjoy working with silk charmeuse ( underwear for my teenage daughter) and georgette for lovely flimsy summer tops. However, always use the tissue paper method. Really love the idea of this and can obviously see that it works.
Totally agree that applying bias binding to the fabric treated this way, would be, well, a breeze.
Thank you yet again for giving us such a huge helping hand.
PS. Would so love it if you would actually do some more courses for Craftsy.com I am missing you!!
Wow, I really love this and hope to make some time to try this out..........looks fantastic on the dress, and as you say would be lovely on either clothing or home furnishings.
Thank you so much for sharing this technique.
I would absolutely love to win this copy, why, to read the article by Kenneth D King...............that would be such a wonderful addition to the other superb tips and techniques I have gained from Threads magazine and its contributors over the years.
Not a subscriber for the moment, so it would be a real treat........
Would love to enter the competitions here at threads.......I have a special ensemble all designed, pattern drafted and made by me.........but I live in the U.K. so I am not eligible to enter..........and prior to returning home, I lived in Turkey.
Good luck to all the participants and to the lucky winner - have fun.
Hi to everyone at Threads.
Would I just adore to win this fabulous giveaway!!
I have recently relocated back to the U.K from my early retirement in Turkey................living in rented accommodation and space is at a premium. All my sewing magazines and books are currently in storage and I am lost without them.
Winning the DVD would mean that at the press of my computer button, I could once more have all the knowledge I need at my fingertips and get me back in the sewing room.
Have my fingers and toes crossed, and everything else too!
Good luck to everyone.
Hi there Mary,
I hate the "maths" part too!!
Can you tell me what size did you allow for each pintuck?
Would you confirm then the formula for working out how much fabric is required for the pintuck section of the skirt.
Lovely finish and looking forward to trying it out.
Just went through all the photo's...............Ah Bunny, how great.
As always your attention to detail is exquisite.
Hi there La Sewista
As always, you do deliver the goods.
You look lovely in your Miyake shirt; the colour suits you so well.
Enjoy good health when wearing it!
Smockerlady. aka Marysia.
Just found your post, whilst looking for something else.
So glad I found it....................one word.........STUNNING!!
Pleased to report that after sending a second request, Marfy got back to me today.
So, now able to get my order sorted out. Only fair to report back a happy ending.
So disappointed lately.
Saw this article and emailed Marfy in Italy to order pattern 2608.................a week later and still no response!!
As I live in Turkey and cannot order on Vogue or Butterick sites, and they have no distributors in the UK ( I still have family there and a U.K. address) I have to wait or chase them to see why they haven't answered my query.
Frustrated sewist or what!!
Oh gosh, I would so love to receive this book.
I have a Helen Joseph Armstrongs book on standard pattern drafting. However, since being able to watch Project Runway here in Turkey, and seeing a young man use draping as a technique ( and I loved what he did) I have been desperate to learn about draping. His clothing designs were just so beautiful, fluid, feminine and just wonderful.
Living here,there are no classes and I am a bit in the wilderness in terms of developing my sewing and designing skills. The description of this book, with all the beautifully illustrated photographs, well, it would be heaven for me as it sounds as though it would be the perfect book to work through on my own and get to grips with it.
Good luck to everyone that has written in............it is a popular item for sure.
I was pretty sure that it had already been announced, as Bruce Oldfield, a British Designer, much favoured by the Late Princess Diana?
Ah, I wonder if Nicole Smith - Assistant Editor, can put me out of my misery; no one else can!
I made a note of the book she mentioned and have just got my hands on the English Version of Pattern Magic 2. I desperately wish to make the balloon sleeve as featured on the cover......
My problem. It states that all the patterns illustrated are for a Japanese size Medium. I cant find any charts in the book which lead you to learn how you draft for smaller sizes. I actually want to make it for a childs dress.
Did anyone else decide to buy the book after seeing it mentioned?? It doesn't give instructions for how you attach the sleeve..........
Would love to be able to sort this out and actually do it!!
Thanks in advance to anyone who may be able to advise. Have written to the publishers for assistance, but no reply to date.............guess I am being a bit impatient to get on with the project.
Hi again Kenneth,
I am sure you looked absolutely amazing and carried off this exquisite piece perfectly.
Here, here..................I dont like the idea of bull fighting, but LOVE the jacket! I hope you have many happy years more wearing it.......
Hi there Kenneth,
I have always wanted to wear a bullfighters style jacket since being a young girl, fab jacket with beautiful trousers to show off a small waist..................
No teenager anymore, but would still wear one!!
How fantastic to own such a beautiful item, it must be so amazing to own and wear such a piece.
Thank you so much for sharing this beautiful eye candy with us all.
Fabulous tutorial, as always!
Hi can anyone advise me?
I sourced the perfect pleater...........but sadly the company in the USA will only "ship" within the US and not to me.
I am an avid follower of all things Kenneth D King.............would it be possible for threads to sometimes help those of us outside the USA and Canada to find alternative suppliers of products recommended.
Sadly, the company just suggests " If you have a friend in the USA get them to send it to you" Friends do help, but I dont feel comfortable regularly asking for assistance in buying products.
I love Kenneths books and every contribution he makes to Threads magazine and this forum.
His writing style is fun and witty and his instructions and diagrams in his books, well they are so easy to follow and understand. Not all books are like this. It spurns me on!!
Thanks a million.
Kenneth D King
Absolutely fabulous as always. Love your books and the video is great. Only wish I could attend a class.
Coming to NY from Turkey in April, should find out if there is any chance of a class being on?
May I ask a silly question............watched the video, but connection here not great, so it kept on breaking up. What do I do to accurately locate the straight and cross grain on the garment, when drafting the pattern for the item?
I will feel a fool when I'm told the answer........having a bad hair day!!
Thanks as always for everything you do.
Hi there Kenneth,
Loved the tutorial and have found where to buy the perfect pleater from............so thanks for that to.
Love your contributions to Threads Magazine, which I eagerly read when I receive it.............and just as your books, your instructions and clear diagrams/pictures help so much. Inspirational to those of us that dont have classes available, or the stores to buy from.
I would love to know, where do you source the jewellery findings you used on your buttonholes in your book,Home Sewing Couture Techniques( as I want to make a jacket and use the technique - takes buttonholes up a level doesn't it. I am visiting NY for a special anniversary and want to stock up on all the goodies I cant buy here at home.
Thanks again, I really love the fact that the way you explain things does actually always makes sense to me and builds my confidence to try new techniques. Thanks Kenneth.
Hi there Susan,
Thank you for such a fabulous tutorial; I love embellished/evening wear and have never tackled such a project; but I will now!
I am heading over to New York in April from my home in Turkey and hopefully I can pick up some stunning fabric to bring back with me. I also hope at some point to get over for a class or two or maybe join the trips you organize to Paris.
Thank you for sharing your immense talent.
The skirt is to die for!
Thanks, beautifully and easily illustrated. I always understand and follow what you write.
Love your books by the way!
As a PS would love to know where to buy the jewellery findings you used in your book Home Sewing Couture Techniques. I would love to re-create this fabulous look.
Thanks for your inspirational books and articles.
Hi there Ladies,
I can agree with many of the items on the "wishlists" of the Threads team...........but for me, living abroad and having to send away for most of my needs my wishlist is full of items that are easily bought.
So top of my wishlist would be a fabulous sewing/fabric/notions shop where I live..............no chance of that
We'll be hopping on a plane and I have a list of supplies to buy and bring back
Huge stash of machine and handsewing needles
Cording, open toe and circular foot for my Bernina sewing machine
An assortment of beautiful threads for my smocking
Mill Hill seed beads, sequins, bugle beads and swarovski teardrops for an evening dress I am making
A new pin cushion with sharpener
Time in a sewing machine shop to go over how to use my automatic needle threader on my machine........I've lost the knack!!
This all on top of items already ordered and waiting at my twinsisters house for me to pick up............My sack will be full of sewing goodies!!
Happy Christmas everyone. Thanks to Threads magazine and the team.................always something inspirational and new to try.
Hi there Mary,
Thanks for Part Two....................great detailed information as usual.
I was so desperate to get the same pattern as on your Part One that I found your wonderful website and emailed you this morning........so sorry for the duplication.
Have to say, I do have the Vogue Pattern you mentioned V7975, but your gold jacket looks beautifully shaped into the waist.............Oh, how I would love, like everyone else to get my hands on the original pattern! LOL
Must buy the dvd's on the threads mags as I have only been a subscriber for a year. I am sure it will be a Godsend to have. Adding it to my Christmas Wishlist!
Beautifully executed dress, the colours are fantastic on you and you look stunning. The background is a perfect match to the dress.
Wishing you all the best.
Hi, this books looks fantastic and takes PJ's for the whole family to a different level!
Have a wonderful 13year old fashion conscious daughter, who loves a variety of nightwear.................this has to be the book to impress her.....and just in time for Christmas too.
Hi there Mary,
Thank you for a wonderful tutorial. I think it is you modelling your fabulous jacket??
Like a lot of others, I would love to know what pattern was used, the back shaping is wonderful and I would really like to make this jacket, following your very clear instructions.
Also, it would be fantastic if you could do a follow put, Part Two on seam finishing etc.
Again, thank you for getting us all motivated! Going back to the U.K. for Christmas, so it would be an opportunity for me to buy what I need for this Jacket............not easy to buy supplies where I live!!
Hoping for an up-date from you Mary. Thanks a million
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