YSL Mondrian dress
I have always loved this iconic dress, from Yve St Laurent’s 1965 collection. He based that collection on the paintings of modern Dutch artist Piet Mondrian. He owned a Mondrian which was displayed in his Paris apartment.
Initially I tried adapting my own shift dress block to create the design, using no darts, as achieved originally by YSL. This was not very sucessful – as he was working with wool jersey I am assuming the main bust dart was shrunk out in some way. In the end, after producing five toiles, I relented and decided to use one discrete side seam bust dart.
My version is made from linen rather than wool jersey as I struggled to find the right colours in the right weight of wool. Personally I like the whiteness of the linen whereas wool is often slightly creamy-yellow.
In order to get an authentic 1960s shift dress look I adapted a vintage pattern from YSL for Vogue – Paris Original V1556. In the commercial pattern the front yoke crosses the bust point, with the bust dart lost in the seam.
In copying the original red, blue and yellow version I left out the vertical stripes at the underarms and used dark navy for the stripes rather than black, but otherwise the design is very similar to the original.
Copy of 1965 YSL Mondrian dress