Pleated Collar/Lapel Jacket
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This elbow-length, one-button jacket’s shell is a silk/cotton blend with metallic thread weaving. The shell is a lightweight to mediumweight, semi-loose weave. The matching facing meets an unexpected geometric, bold print. The collar and lapel feature small groups of pleating that act as the focal point of the garment.
The jacket is part of an outfit and a mini-capsule collection I created as part of my fashion design curriculum.
The most challenging feature was the collar/lapel technique. The development of the pleating took 3 hours using a pleat board. Due to the shell’s natural fibers, the pleating required time-consuming handling (and lots and lots of ironing) to maintain the fold. Originally, the entire collar and part of the lapel were to be pleated, but the process was very difficult despite going through many iterations (at 3 hours each).
Front view of jacket showing collar and lapel pleating
Detail of collar and lapel pleating
Matching shell facing & bold lining
A model wearing the jacket that is part of an outfit (pants are made of the reverse side of the jacket shell; a long-sleeved silk charmeuse blouse with pleated panel at center back)