Margo’s Spring Sewing
For the first dress, I had some poly faille custom printed at Spoonflower after working with a designer to get the floral border created in shades of blue. I altered the Cashmerette bodice to create the surplice design and also made the waistband a bit wider than the original pattern. The bodice of this dress is lined in the fashion material – I had thought that the border print was on both sides of the selvage, but alas, no, so the skirt is not as full as planned, and I had lots of extra white yardage to use for the bodice lining. The skirt is french seamed and lined with the same material.
The second dress is the Cashmerette Upton in a cotton poplin, bodice lined in cotton, skirt unlined and french seamed. I used the scoop neck bodice and gored skirt and other than making the waistband about 1 1/2 inches wider, and lowering the bust dart about 1 1/4 inch, this pattern is sewn as drafted.
The third dress is the Chantilly by Colette. The outer fabric is a printed voile, and the lining is black Bemberg rayon. The black yolk is some leftover scraps in a poly faille. I reduced the fullness in the bodice pleats a bit, and shortened the yoke straps at the shoulder by about one inch, but otherwise, this dress was sewn as drafted.
The fourth and fifth dresses are both Vogue 8555, one of my favourite patterns for a summer dress. I altered this pattern by adding a small additional bodice tuck, to eliminate some gaping in the neckline, and by using a different skirt on both. The original pattern adds more volume at the belly and hips than I like.
For the Swiss dot, I used a simple gathered skirt with pockets, and for the striped dress, I drafted a skirt with inverted box pleats and side pockets. The striped fabric was from a thrift store duvet cover (An addition to my line of thrift store couture!)!
Both of these have bodices lined in white cotton, with unlined skirts, although the swiss dot will require a slip.
Cashmerette Upton - Altered with surplice bodice and using custom printed fabric from Spoonflower
Cashmerette Upton in cotton poplin.
Colette Chantilly in printed voile. Lined with black bemberg rayon.
Vogue 8555 in Swiss Dot border print
Vogue 8555 in striped cotton fabric from thrift store duvet cover. (Fabric marker still visible in this photo)