Beautiful summer fabrics – like handkerchief linen – demand simple finishes. Here’s an easy way to deal with the edges of a loose-fitting boxy jacket. Start by adjusting your pattern to allow a substantial hem width and an equal amount on each front opening edge. Add ¼ inch on all sides for clean finishing. The vertical hems on the front take the place of the facings. You don’t need interfacing unless you want buttons and buttonholes. In that case, I’d suggest adding a layer of sheer silk organza to the fronts.
A mitered corner eliminates bulk.
To complete the miter:
Turn up the hem, turn in the fronts, and press.
Turn in the edges the desired amount. Press.
Turn in ¼ inch on all three edges and press.
Turn in 1/4 inch on all sides to clean finish the edges.
Fold the hems in place and mark the point where the inside edges meet with pins through each fold.
Mark with a pin through each fold at the inner corner where the edges intersect.
Open the corner.
Fold diagonally, right sides together, matching the pins.
Mark a diagonal line from the pins to the inside corner.
Stitch along the marked line through both thicknesses.
Turn up the hem to check the miter. It’s always a good idea to this before you cut – just to make sure you’ve stitched it correctly
Turn the corner right sides out to check the miter.
If the corner looks good, trim away the excess fabric to create a ¼-inch seam allowance. Press the seam open.
Go back and trim to a 1/4 inch and press the seam open.
Machine stitch the hem in place along the inside folds, pivoting at the corners.