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Not Your Traditional Patch Pocket

The key to sewing a very flat patch pocket is where you place the interfacing and how the fabric is folded and sewn. Here’s how to do it:

1. Make 1/8 inch deep clips into the seam allowances to mark the pocket facing fold.

2. Cut the interfacing 1 1/2 inch x the width of the pocket, less the 5/8 inch seam allowance on both vertical sides. Place the top edge of the interfacing on the wrong side of the pocket at the top fold line. Serge the top raw edge of the pocket facing. Staystitch around the pocket 5/8 inch from the raw edges.

3.  Fold the pocket facing to the wrong side at the clips. Slide a strip of Fine Fusing Tape or Steam-A-Seam under the pocket facing edge and press lightly. Remove the paper backing and press to fuse the pocket facing in place. 

4. Topstitch across the Pocket 1″ below the folded top edge. View from right side of Pocket.

5. Press the seam allowances to the wrong side, favoring the staystitching slightly to the wrong side so it isn’t seen from the right side. Lay strips of Steam-A-Seam on the folded seam allowances. Press lightly. Remove the paper backing.

For close up view of top pocket edge.

6. Place the pocket on a front, matching the dot on the garment. Be sure the edge of the pocket is parallel to the grain line of the garment fabric. Check all four edges of the pocket to make sure it runs along the weave in the garment fabric. Examine the top corners of the pocket. If any seam allowances or stray threads are peeking out, tuck them down below the pocket’s top edge. Press the pocket to fuse it in place.

7. Edgestitch the pocket. Place the garment in the sewing machine with the pocket top…

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  1. mynick | | #1

    Doesn't this give you raw edges at the top and bottom seam allowance. I usually use very lightweight interfacing or lining material and line all my pockets for a finished feel. With careful clipping at the corners there is little if no bulk to worry about and no loose edges/threads when you bring your hand out of the pocket.

  2. User avater
    yousewsmart | | #2

    Serging all four edges of the pocket before beginning the pocket construction prevents any raveling and is a lot quicker than lining. Unless, of course, you are constucting a high fashion garment, then lining would be an appropriate finish.

  3. AAC | | #3

    I can't understand that a Threads poster could see sex in "How to cover a snap". Whoever you are, you need help!!Here's that sick comment.

    iceni writes: HI I love all the wonderful tips that the experts and other sewers give, But OH!OH! I shudder at the sexual content of your esteemed website. I am talking about THE TERMS MALE AND FEMALE!.
    Excuuuuuuse meeeee.Who would fail to see the pornigraphic conotations of the piece with a ball, and the other piece coyly called the female piece, with one fitting in to the other. I am shocked! Please put a warning at the top of the page regarding sexual content!
    Seriously though, aren't these terms a little sexist and outdated? How about the 'prong bit fited into the prong case? Oh I don't know. It's the same thing when you talk to an electrician or a mechanic. what devious mind started this in the first place. (By the way I say all this tongue in cheek) I love your magazine. Posted: 11:21 am on November 10th

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