Moving Flare in a Skirt
The new approach I have developed for fitting evolved from a sentence I used to hear in classes: “The drag line points to the problem.” I’d get frustrated about being told to “adjust” here or there-without knowing how much to adjust. This sentence contained the conceptual framework that underlies the different fitting methods, but I couldn’t find any information that explained the principles that make this work. Since I’m not one for rote learning, but need to know why it works, I made understanding this my Holy Grail.
I began to understand the operative principle through an experience with a former studio-mate who was a fashion designer. When the flare in a jacket skirt didn’t fall where I wanted, I planned to stiffen and weight the hem to get the proper result, until my studio-mate showed me a trick. He folded the ripple out in the muslin, and then told me…
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