Raw-edge bias binding can be used instead of facing or regular fold-over bias binding to finish a garment. I have found this technique is a wonderful edge finish for dimensional handwoven fabrics or bouclés. Many times, these fabrics have a bulky appearance when faced with self fabric and trying to stitch a conventional bias binding tends to give a “homemade” appearance.
More on edge finishes
• A Clever Finish Makes a Single Layer Reversible
• Get Creative with Edge Finishes on a Twist Top
• 3 Neat Edge Finishes for Sleeveless Styles
• Sheer Seams and Edges
• Video: A Neckline Binding for Knits
• How to Cut and Sew a Decorative Bias Facing
How to create raw-edge binding
These steps show raw bias edges on linen applied in a self-fabric. However, I have also used hand-dyed bias silk ribbon as an edge, silk taffeta cut on the bias, and bias china silk.
1. Cut the bias strips 1 1/2 inches wide. It will be cut again with a rotary cutter after it is stitched, but starting out with 1 1/2 inches is easy to work with when creating the edging. One piece of bias is placed on the wrong side of the garment edge and the other bias is placed on the right side. The right sides of the bias are placed toward the garment. All raw edges match along the outside edge. Unless is an important part of the garment, I don’t remove the seam allowances around the outside of the garment.
2. Pin the raw edges in place with the pin taking a “pick” at what will be the stitching line.
3. Stitch a presser foot away from the raw edge or about 3/8 inch.
4. Press the bias binding away from the garment on the right side and on the wrong side of the garment.
5. Stitch the inside and…