Recently there came to my hand a Norfolk jacket. This jacket, while being close-fitting, was amazingly comfortable, in that I could really move my arms up and forward. On studying the cut, I noticed this strange design detail under the arm. On further examination, I realized that this was a cut-on gusset for a two-part tailored sleeve!
Before I start this demonstration, I’ll explain a little about gussets. A gusset performs one of two functions–it will replace fabric into a pattern, where the fabric was lost during the drafting process. The classic example of this is the diamond gusset on a kimono sleeve. The gusset replaces the fabric under the arm, where the sleeve and body patterns would overlap while grafting the sleeve to the bodice.
The other function the gusset performs is to give extra fabric in an area of the pattern, where greater than normal mobility…
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