Staying a Curve with Crossgrain Muslin
This is a little trick I learned recently from one of the veteran tailoring professors at F.I.T. It exploits the property of crossgrain stretch.
A little explanation is in order: When fabric is woven, the lengthwise grain yarns are held under great tension during the weaving process. This creates a situation, where the fabric has less stretch along the lengthwise grain, but more stretch across the crossgrain. It is this property that we’ll be exploiting.
The object of this post, is to show how to use a strip of crossgrain muslin, to stay a curved armhole. In tailoring, you want to stay the armhole before you construct the jacket; otherwise, the bias stretch that occurs on the armhole will distort the armhole and create problems later.
Begin by cutting a strip of muslin (the thinner the better), 3/4″-1″ wide, and as long as the armhole circumference you want…
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