Eliminate Buildup in Your Seam Allowances
Ah, the mysteries behind making those smooth, flat edges on tailored garments. Sometimes, you just can’t grade a seam enough to make all the underlayers disappear. Kenneth D. King shows you how to reconfigure a pattern to divert the seam from the edges of tailored details such as pocket flaps. This removes bulk for a sleek and trim edge.
Kenneth’s flap-pocket method is similar to the pocket technique Judy Barlup uses in her excellent work on Japanese tailoring; his differs most in the interfacing.
The object of the pattern alteration is to turn the edges into foldlines instead of seamlines. This makes for a really flat, clean pocket flap. The seams are converted into mitered corners. All you have to do is prepare your pattern and underlayers, and you’re set to go.
A pocket flap is used as an example because it’s easy to see and follow.…
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