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How to Fit a Bust

Threads magazine - 124 – April/May 2006

Evening gowns, prom dresses, wedding gowns, sundresses, and halter tops require specialized bust support. There are ways to shape the breasts, establish a beautiful silhouette, and secure the needed support so that you are assured that everything stays invisibly positioned without any tugging. On these occasions, you’re usually showing a little more skin. Don’t fit to the bosom you possess, fit to the bosom you want.

Most breasts also require support or lift, which calls for tension against the body to work, something like a suspension bridge. Learn how to establish the tension you need for the best lift.

You can use these methods in ready-made garments as well as in those you sew. Ideally, you should decide your method of establishing shape and foundation before you cut out your garment fabric

Assemble the necessities

Fabric stores and online sources sell the notions you’ll need, but a waist stay is custom-made.

Molded foam cups

Similar to but smaller than brassiere cups, molded cups are used to hold and shape the breast. The best ones have thin edges that seem to disappear when sewn into a garment. They come in several colors but can be covered with tricot to match your skin tone.

Thin molded cups provide a smooth shape without adding volume. This type of cup is used for bosoms that require a layer of thin padding for modesty and normal support. Other cups are heavier and have padding—some even have built-in pads. (SewSassy.com)


When positioned in various locations inside a cup, pads add cleavage, reshape the bosom, or balance an asymmetrical bust. Purchase pads at fabric stores and lingerie shops or online. (SewSassy.com)

Bra extenders

The hook-and-eye arrangement typical of a bra closure can be purchased at any notions counter. Ready-made ones…

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