The basics of garment construction are just that: basic. It’s straightforward and often predictable. But any good sewer will tell you that it’s the fine points that elevate the quality of any garment, whether it’s couture, ready-to-wear, or handmade.

Susan Khalje came across an ensemble that was a perfect example of how even simple garments can offer a perfect canvas to which to apply several clever and well-thought-out techniques. The outfit, made in the 1960s, consists of a straight skirt, a coat, and a sleeveless shift with a tie belt. Not surprisingly the fabrics are silk.

Design-wise, these garments are straightforward, but they contain several details that add charm and style, and reflect the overall care with which they were made. The attention to detail and the clever solutions deft skill of this designer offered are inspiring. More than forty years later, her style is still compelling.

Explore the details of these retro garments and learn techniques for tying knots with padded cord, and how to finish a bound buttonhole.

From Threads #136