The ubiquitous little black dress: Coco Chanel referred to it as the “Ford Model T” of its day; Audrey Hepburn seldom comes to mind without picturing her in her Breakfast at Tiffany’s dress, and it continues to appear on every list of iconic fashion garments. But what is it that makes the little black dress so coveted?

In short, it’s little-typically, fairly close to the body and at least somewhat fitted; it’s black — that universally slimming color — and it’s a dress, not a suit or a long gown. But a truly outstanding little black dress also has interesting style lines and design details; it can go from dressed up or dressed down with a quick change of accessories, and when created with couture dressmaking techniques, it receives its celebrated due.

Susan Khalje walks you through the process of creating a couture-quality little black dress.

From Threads #135