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The Yoke Pattern for a Fantasy Fur Jacket

This is a short post to show the process of creating the yoke for this jacket design. The photo here shows a finished jacket I’ve made from this pattern already. While I’m not going to do an exact copy, this is the starting point.

The jacket has a separate collar and T-shaped shoulder seam, but in the new piece, I decided to have a cut-on collar, and a different shoulder configuration.

Through pattern manipulation, I created a shoulder dart, and new seam lines. I made this pattern up in oak tag board, and taped it together. Since the leather will be stiff, I thought it was the best way to get a “read” on the design line.

Here’s the front view.
And, here’s the side view.

And, the back view. Next comes the “muslin, but in leather as opposed to fabric.

I cut the pattern in scrap leather that I had sitting around, did some lacing on the shoulder dart, and glued the rest together, to see how it would assemble.

A front view.
The side view.

And the back view.

With some minor changes, I decided that this was the design I wanted for the jacket. In the next post, I’ll cover some experimentation I did with the lacings, and a demonstration of the lacing technique that I chose to assemble the jacket.

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  1. Rabia | | #1

    Mr. King, this is absolutely BEAUTIFUL and BRILLIANT; I completely LOVE the look of the crocodile patterned leather yoke next to the fur; I am GREEN with envy that SOMEBODY SOMEWHERE is going to have this STUNNING coat! Also, I am making myself a faux fur coat very soon and this has given me some GREAT ideas!

    Oh, and I recently picked up issue 121 (back from 2003!) of Threads at a thrift store, one which was missing from my collection...and WOW! There was that article: "Introducing Kenneth King"!

    My breath was absolutely taken away by the stunningly BEAUTIFUL creations featured in it... I LOVED the "boomerang shaped" fur boa (GREAT idea, BTW!) with the little hidden pocket; (very "Erte", that!) Actually I loved EVERYTHING of yours that was featured in it;I am only starting to get my breath back!

    It is an odd fact that I myself have been trying to come up with clever ways to work with sheer nylon organzas; you know, the double-woven iridescent stuff that is so popular for kids "fairy' costumes these days, and then along comes this issue!

    I also ate up that wonderful KK article next to it, on embellishment for lapels' as it happens, I have recently gotten "hooked on couching", so the extreme inspiration for clever ways to couch trims "in concert" was more than timely! So, though this article is "ancient history", I still wanted to tell you that this has now become my FAVOURITE issue of Threads, and your articles will be providing inspiration for a LONG time to come!

  2. Rabia | | #2

    Whoops, I just looked at the numbers and I realize I meant "issue 108 from 2003" where I saw the article "Meet Kenneth King...issue 121 was the OTHER issue I was able to score at the thrift store!!

  3. User avater
    kennethdking | | #3

    Hello, Rabia,

    Thanks for the kind words! The coat is finished (awaiting a photo of me in it), and I'm working on a messenger bag out of the same fantasy fur and leather. it's coming along nicely, and will make some fashionista very happy...

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