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Sewing the Facing Gusset for the Fantasy Fur Jacket

When drafting the facing for this jacket, I didn’t want facing seams to create bulk in the body. This required me to cut a neckline/collar facing that had only a center back seam. Since the collar was cut all in one with the bodice, this used a solution I resort to on occasion–and put a gusset in the facing. This post show how to draft this type of gusset.

The object here, is to keep an unbroken neck seam to avoid additional bulky leather layers when applying the facing to the body.

First, copy all the yoke pattern pieces onto fresh paper. Cut them out and tape them together along the collar part of the facing. They will overlap at a point around the neckline, marked here with dots. Draft a line where the overlapping begins to connect the dots. This is line A to B. This line will become the top edge of the gusset. Now, draft the lower edge of the facing. This is the line where the facing joins the lining. This line is positioned “to taste”, and is shown here in red. Begin at the center back and draw to the first seam line. Next, swing the back paperto the right, and match the two adjacent side/back seam lines below point B. Continue the red line across the side back pattern. The blue line from B to C will be one of the seam lines for the gusset we are making. Again, pivot the paper patterns so you can align the seam lines adjoining the side front to the side back below the blue line, and tape them together. Continue on the red line over the side front to point D. Align the remaining seam in the same manner, and continue the red line across the front piece. The…

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  1. rkr4cds1 | | #1

    I'm curious about all of the puckers in the weft ribbon. I assume you held the ribbon and weave smoothly taut as they passed under the presser foot; but why so many puckers? No way to avoid those after all of your experience on your second coat?
    As a cosmetologist I do have a theatrical application I could use this for, but am afraid that those would become scratchy or bumpy against the head....especially balding males.

  2. rkr4cds1 | | #2

    Oops sorry - this got posted into the wrong 'thread'!
    I'm not sure I have an Edit or Delete option....

  3. User avater
    kennethdking | | #3

    There's no real way to entirely eliminate the puckers when sewing the weft and ribbon together. Using a zig zag stitch helps, but that's why I make the pieces of fabric before cutting--where there are puckers, there's shrinkage as well.

  4. Normandie | | #4

    Kenneth, your skills are awesome. I love your creativity, your designs, your techniques and generousity to share your knowledge.
    You're ablity to see how to solve a problem and translate into practical application is truly marvelous. You are so talented and lucky.
    Not sure that I could ever attain your level of perception & skill but you are an inspriation to keep trying.
    Bless you and warmest wishes from one of your biggest fans!

  5. JaniceK | | #5

    Mr. King , your skills are mind blowing!I mostly design quilts now, but when I went to F.I.T. and after that had my own custom clothing business, I loved the pattern making process. I want to thank you for letting me live vicariously through you and your projects.

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