Independently applied facings are seldom used in couture garments. While machine-sewn facings are a fast and easy finish for ready-to-wear clothing, couture garments use another approach.
The cumbersome facing, along with its seam allowances and rows of machine stitching and understitching, is eliminated. The seam allowances are then cut generously enough to serve as built-in/cut-on facings.
Linings are applied by hand—often right up to the garment’s edge. An underlining is included to strengthen the area and to serve as a base for the hand stitches that are a part of the process.
Contributing Editor Susan Khalje demonstrates how to apply a lining to a curved neckline and an armhole edge for an elegant couture technique.
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Vogue 1642
Pattern A has pleated patch pockets with flaps. Pattern B has side seam zippers. This Vogue sewing pattern kit was designed and printed in the United States and comes with sewing templates, instructions, fabric recommendations, pattern pieces, and sizing guides for (2) shirts and (1) pair of pants. Women's clothing patterns can be made to fit sizes 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, and 14.
Know Me patterns offer stylish and versatile designs, including the ME2064 rain jacket, which combines a cropped jacket and a vest that can be worn together or separately. The boxy-fit jacket features a hood, snap closure, and multiple pockets, while the vest has a zippered front and cargo pockets. This sewing kit includes templates, fabric recommendations, and instructions for sizes 44-52, proudly made in the USA.
Butterick, Misses’ Shirts and Shorts 6946 and 6947
This pattern makes fitted shirts with collar, sleeve, and cuff options, plus pleated shorts with a front zipper. Includes styles with rolled sleeves, turn-back cuffs, or a stitched hem. Sized for misses 4–12.
I use this method and love it. I found the instructions in Threads Magazine Archive. Everytime I see an article written by Susan--I know it will be spot on. Thanks.
I admire people who have the patience and fortitude to do all that hand sewing. I know it makes for a beautiful garment, polished and finessed, but still, I choose a method that allows for me to utilize the machine. Hats off to those of you that turn out this awesome kind of finished product.
When I was younger I was always in a hurry to get my garment finished. Today I have so much more patience....I really love doing handsewing and seeing the results. This is something I can't wait to try. I love all of Susan's articles and have taken some of her online classes.
Susan used the Vogue 8107 pattern to make the top shown in the article. This pattern is out of print. However, her technique can be used to replace separate facings for curved necklines and armhole edges in many garments.
--The Threads editors
Koos van den Akker’s iconic bias strip technique gives appliqué sharp definition and unity. David Page Coffin explains how to apply this method to your own work.
A budding designer transforms a tailored blazer into a statement piece by extending the collar and lapels. She details the process, so you can try it, too.
Is this top an adaptation of the dress pattern 8107?
Yes, I'd also like to know which pattern this is from.
I use this method and love it. I found the instructions in Threads Magazine Archive. Everytime I see an article written by Susan--I know it will be spot on. Thanks.
The article says the pattern is vogue 8107, but obviously a top not a dress with a flounce. I think this one is out of print?
The article says the pattern is vogue 8107, but obviously a top not a dress with a flounce. I think this one is out of print?
Susan's know-how is a wonderful, wonderful resource. Thank you so much for posting this.
I would probably clip the seam allowances on an angle. A tip from applique.
Yes, i like the top but i would want it to be a little longer.
I admire people who have the patience and fortitude to do all that hand sewing. I know it makes for a beautiful garment, polished and finessed, but still, I choose a method that allows for me to utilize the machine. Hats off to those of you that turn out this awesome kind of finished product.
JNormann
When I was younger I was always in a hurry to get my garment finished. Today I have so much more patience....I really love doing handsewing and seeing the results. This is something I can't wait to try. I love all of Susan's articles and have taken some of her online classes.
Susan used the Vogue 8107 pattern to make the top shown in the article. This pattern is out of print. However, her technique can be used to replace separate facings for curved necklines and armhole edges in many garments.
--The Threads editors