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How to Miter the Inside Corner of a Hong Kong-Finished Edge

Recently, I taught this mitering technique to my Haute Couture Construction class students at the Fashion Institute of Technology in Manhattan. They asked where to find it in the literature, but I don’t know—I figured this one out myself. I’m sure someone else has gotten there first, but I wanted to share this, so you can learn from it.

1. Begin with a raw inside corner that needs a Hong Kong binding.

2. Cut bias strips 1-1/4-inch wide for a 1/4-inch-wide finished binding.

3. Stitch the bias strip with right sides of the fabric together and the edges aligned using a 1/4-inch-wide seam allowance. End the stitching 1/4 inch down from the intersecting cut edge.

4. Back-tack at the end of the stitching. The first row of stitching was sewn in green for clarity.

5. Turn the work over, and clip just the wool at an angle, ending the clip at the last stitch, as shown.

6. Open up the fabric to form a straight line, match  the cut wool and bias edges. This causes the clip at the corner to spread and form an angle. Pin the bias strip in position.

7. Turn the work right side up to expose the bias strip, which lays flat when going into the machine.

8. Continue the stitching line by starting at the end of the stitching row. I’ve changed the thread to red to show where the stitching continues. Sew the remainder of the bias strip to the wool.

9. This is what the work looks like from the back. You can see the different colors of stitching change at the corner.

10. Press the seam allowances toward the bias strip.

11. To form the miter, fold the work at the corner, as shown.

12. Lay the seamlines of the bias strips on top of each other and…

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  1. sewtherapeutic | | #1

    it is a beautiful finnish and please forgive my ignorance but...what type of garment would you use this technique on please

  2. [email protected] | | #2

    Kenneth, you have come up with a brilliant solution again.

  3. rhoni478 | | #3

    Amazing! Thanks so much. Rhonda

  4. User avater
    bubbecraft | | #4

    How cool is that! That solves my binding problem on quilts with inside corners! Thank you!

  5. fotofashion | | #5

    I, of course, am not Kenneth but I do use this finish frequently. One use is on the facing of a jacket whether you line it or not. (In this case the lining goes under the facing)it looks almost like a zip-out lining. I have also used this finish on seams of silk blouses and seams and hems of skirts. You may say "but that is a lot of work for something that will not be seen", yes, but if you like the luxury of the finish remember, YOU will see it.

  6. User avater
    LuvThreadsMagazine | | #6

    Senor King,

    Your practical pefectionism can slay any dragon (and there be dragons out there).

  7. User avater
    kennethdking | | #7

    To Mariastephens: This finish is on the hem allowance of a skirt with back vent--the raw edge needs the nice finish, and my students had a difficult time mastering this, so this is how I figured out how to show it. Now the blog is posted, I'll refer them here to print it off so they can keep it with their notes....

  8. User avater
    jpadden53 | | #8

    Between the step where you have the red thread running stitch and the final photo, it seems that the binding has been turned under? I do not see the running stitch at all. I know that a running stitch in the color coordinated thread will not show as the red did, but is there a raw edge in the final photo?

  9. User avater
    kennethdking | | #9

    To JPadden: The photo with the red thread and running stitch, is the back of the work, which will lie against the fabric when the skirt gets hemmed. Flip the work over, and the last photo is the front of the word. That's why you don't see the raw edge in the last photo--it's there along with the red running stitches, on the back of the work.

  10. beulah | | #10

    Thank you Kenneth for such detailed instructions. You are always very, very clear, and thank you fofofashion for your explanation of some of the uses for this technique.

  11. Buttonscreates | | #11

    Kenneth, you are a genius and incredible instructor. After sewing off and on for 40 years I have learned so much from you. You are so wholesome, a true teacher that communicates so well. I have your DVD's and am taking a crafts class of yours.

    I feel like I have gotten to know you even though we haven't met. When my family settles down and I can take time from me, I want to take my future vacations coming to events and classes to learn more about what I love to do.

    I have learned more in the last four years on the internet than in the sewing I did from 7 years old through College with a degree in Home Economics/Textile Science. I actually taught the beginning construction classes for my instructor.

    The school has come a long way since. My daughter is there in same College getting a Fashion Analysis degree with minor in Marketing. They have the Coda system now and teach so much more than when I was there 30 years ago.

    Thank you so much for your enthusiasm, dedication and sharing your knowledge!

  12. User avater
    kennethdking | | #12

    To Jodie: Thanks for the kind words! I had to chuckle, though--"wholesome"? It's sweet of you to say that, but my friends would differ on that particular adjective.

    Thanks for giving me a smile today!

  13. user-2297052 | | #13

    This is so timely - I think I can use this finish for a jersey binding on a V neck dress that doesn't have a CF seam. Brilliant

  14. User avater
    Sewista | | #14

    I love to use HK seams and this is such a wonderful bit of finesse. Thank you again, Kenneth.

  15. User avater
    DSegal | | #15

    Kenneth! Happy Holidays from SF! I was the "button bitch" at Britex for many years. Good to see you are still improving standards for the masses of sewers who need you! Now I have to go find some corners to miter.

  16. User avater
    CKsews | | #16

    HK finish to seams, hems, etc. always makes the everyday garment something special. This demonstration is especially helpful and extremely well presented to allow any seamstress to use the HK finish for professional looking results. Thanks Kenneth.

  17. User avater
    sewin | | #17

    Thank you Kenneth for the great tutorial on the hong kong finish!

  18. user-2418800 | | #18

    Thank you for this detailed and easy to understand tutorial. The way you answer all of our questions shows that you have respect for all of us as learners.....so yes, I agree with Jodie, wholesome seems like a fitting adjective to me.

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