How to Make a Floating Shoulder Pad
I saw this idea in an Escada shirt several seasons ago. The shoulder pad cover is extended toward the neckline and then sewn into the neck seamline. This holds the pad in place but also enables it to shift with your garment as you move. This is a great technique for a boatneck garment and other tricky necklines because the pad can’t peek out at the edge. It is very nice in garments with a jewel neckline, a convertible collar, or a collar band. It also prevents ‘shoulder pad drop-off’–that section where the shoulder pad ends between the arm and the neck and often causes an indentation along the shoulder seam of your garment. A floating shoulder pad is a solution to filling in the seamline and to enable natural movement of the garment when wearing.
1. This method works best with an uncovered ‘bull-nose’ shoulder pad such as the one shown. It is stitched to wrap over the shoulder. Don’t use a foam pad because it can’t withstand the heat needed from the iron.
2. Cut a piece of fusible tricot interfacing slightly larger than the underside of the shoulder pad, and extending from the inner point of the pad to the neckline of the garment. The inner point of the pad is the part that’s closest to your neck.
3. Pick a solid color lining fabric or silk charmeuse that does not shadow through your garment. A color that matches your skin tone works well under white fabric. When I first saw the Escada ‘man tailored shirts’, they were available in white, ivory, and black heavy organza. The fabric that covered the top side of the shoulder pad (that would show through the organza) was not in white, ivory, or black silk charmeuse. Under…