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The Fortuny Jacket: Finessing the Facing

In my first “Fortuny Jacket” post, I demonstrated how I constructed the sleeves. Now, I’ll show you how I chose to handle the facing.

But first–just so you can see–here’s the label that came with the fabric.

Cool, no?

Here’s the body of the jacket all together. As I previously showed you, the sleeves have been constructed. I’m leaving the lining for later, but now need to construct the facings.

This customer wanted a contrasting fabric for the lapel facing, so this jacket will “read” like a classic shawl lapel dinner jacket. Using black satin, though, would be too harsh a contrast.

I decided to use the selvages of the fabric for the lapels, as they are unprinted, so will blend well with the design.


The selvages of this Fortuny fabric are unprinted for about 4-1/2-inches from the edge of the fabric. This means I have some unprinted ground fabric for the lapel facing that will blend well with the print.

The drawback of this, though, is cutting. If I cut the lapel with the collar portion running along the selvage, the lower portion of the facing would run wonky. If I cut the facing with the lengthwise grain on the center front as it should be, the collar wouldn’t all fall on the unprinted area.  

I thought first to cut the collar as a separate piece, but I didn’t want a harsh seam joining it to the rest of the facing. I also didn’t want a seam intersecting the seam joining the facing to the body–there would be a bump where it intersects, which would be unattractive.

I decided to make a large dart.

Before I carried out the next step, I cut out the interfacing for the…

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  1. User avater
    janenz | | #1

    Awesome! Its great to see how to cleverly use all the fabric. I love to learn new "tricks". Thanks for sharing this

  2. User avater
    LuvThreadsMagazine | | #2

    Senor King,

    The elegance of a single piece of fabric is a testament to your tenacity.

    As always,

    One days drive beyond impressed

  3. User avater
    LuvThreadsMagazine | | #3

    [one can never elude the punctuation police]

  4. User avater
    kennethdking | | #4

    Not to worry about that missing apostrophe...

  5. Josefly | | #5

    I would n-e-v-e-r have thought of that. I love following the construction of this jacket. Thanks so much for the clear descriptions.

  6. User avater
    couture_academic | | #6

    Yet another brilliant solution to a unique problem. I think you're a sewing scientist! I just finished watching your short fitting video with Threads and I love how you endeavour to learn the underlying principles which unite everything rather than blindly following sewing dogma. I'm becoming more and more of a 'do what works' fan, rather than 'just follow the rules'. I find that this approach dispels any fear/trepidation and encourages use of creativity and personal power. As sewers we have ultimate power over our dress, and I think if we all exercised that power without fear or care of others' opinions we could seriously revolutionize the world! (Perhaps a bit of an overstatement there). Anywho, brilliant jacket...I'm sure you're having a blast making it :)

  7. User avater
    kennethdking | | #7

    I just delivered the jacket on Tuesday, so took it in to class beforehand. (We were meeting right after class.) It's good that my students see that I still do this as part of my business.

    When I showed my students this detail, they were all over it--after asking me the question: Can you DO that?!?" I of course reminded them that, as a designer, one can do anything one wants. You just have to know how. Which I then showed them.

    When I get a photo of the client, I'll post the rest of the jacket process. She was delighted with the results.

  8. User avater
    kennethdking | | #8

    To Couture Academic--Bravo! The comment on fear is always relevant, and something to keep in mind especially in these troubling times.

    Whether it be fear of what others think of one's clothes, or fear of what travails or disasters one encounters in daily life, there is power in pushing past fear and living life in satisfying and affirming ways.

    Who says fashion is frivolous?!?

  9. KharminJ | | #9

    I love learning something new that I can apply to several different situations.
    Thank you, Kenneth, for continually stretching both your imagination and ours; and thank YOU, Couture_Academic, for making a clear connection between Sewing and the-Rest-of-Everything!
    So true, that most "rules" start as just somebody's preferred method.

    Another one looking forward to more photos!

  10. User avater
    jennyebner | | #10

    So interesting how you are doing this. Love the article. As always you are an inspiration.

  11. User avater
    jennyebner | | #11

    So interesting how you are doing this. Love the article. As always you are an inspiration.

  12. user-2472150 | | #12

    "Whether it be fear of what others think of one's clothes, or fear of what travails or disasters one encounters in daily life, there is power in pushing past fear and living life in satisfying and affirming ways."

    You are such an inspiration. I'm learning so much from you.

  13. User avater
    kennethdking | | #13

    You're too kind...

    Really, though, if we all stick together and remind each other of these kinds of ideas (which is one advantage of blogs like this), it can only lead to more good in the world. And there's never too much of that.

  14. rosestargold | | #14

    Love the barroque style of the fabric. i look in the post. For me is advance technique (i only sew with patterns). Im a begginer. But it gives an idea how to construct a garmet. love it! An inspiration indeed.

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