When you find a pattern that looks good on you, fits correctly, and is easy to make, what more can you ask for? This article is about keeping what works in a basic dress while playing with style and construction details for exciting variations.

The sheath, or shift dress, is author Shirley Botsford’s favorite. It was the first garment she made when learning to sew. It is a style with endless possibilities, and she has been modifying it ever since her first version.

The techniques she uses are easy to apply to your staple patterns. All you have to do is draw a few new style lines and apply basic patternmaking to create new necklines and seamlines, plus add panels, pockets, and inserts. Embellishments, such as topstitching or trim, further change your modified garment’s mood and look.

We come to rely on standby patterns when we want guaranteed results. Shirley can inspire you with a few ways to give your dress wardrobe and your sewing a creative spark in this article in Threads issue #154.