Sew a Lapped Zipper by Machine
Jacque Goldsmith shares the details of a valuable time-saving technique for zipper sewing in Threads #171.
My experience in clothing factories showed me that zippers can be inserted without having to sew the lining to the zipper tape by hand. In the industry, hand stitching is kept to a minimum to keep costs down. I adapted a factory method to sew a lapped zipper into a lined garment without the need for slipstitching. It simply requires adjustments to the lining seam allowances and the construction sequence, and a zipper foot for your sewing machine. The technique is demonstrated on a dress pattern that has a center-back zipper and a neckline facing, but it also works on garments without facings, or with side-seam zippers. With this method, you’ll achieve professional-looking results on the right and wrong sides of your custom-made garment.
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