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Sew a Hidden Lapel

Threads magazine - 172 - April/May 2014

Kenneth D. King explains how to create a unique coat style in Threads #172.

Some months ago, during a sit-and-sew with Susan Khalje, a student brought in photographs of a jacket detail she wanted to reproduce. At first, I called it a blind lapel because it looks like a lapel on the lower portion, near center front, and like a collarless jacket around the neckline. But the real interest lies between those two points-where the notch would normally be on a traditional notched-collar lapel. On this jacket, the notch edge of the lapel disappears into the shoulder of the jacket. Just one edge of the lapel lingers for a different and refreshing style. If you want a jacket that makes people stop you for a second look, I’ll show you how to engineer this interesting feature on a pattern, and then how to put the pieces together.

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  1. Lowing | | #1

    This is a LOT of fun!

  2. User avater
    kennethdking | | #2


    It was fun to have a challenge to figure out in the Sit And Sew, and help someone get what they wanted to make...

  3. DeniseK | | #3

    I just finished reading the article and now I've got to try making that jacket. I understand how you drew the pattern pieces but can't get my mind around how the whole thing goes together. I think this is one of those times when I need to have the thing in my hands while I step through the instructions to literally see what's happening. I love a good puzzle!

  4. togorose | | #4

    This is a great way to sew a plain jacket and make it look fashionable. Thank you for the wonderful instructions. I must try making this jacket as I think this style will do wonders for me. Thank you

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