In this article by Susan Khalje from Threads #173 (June/July 2014), you’ll learn to apply the great Madame Grès’ signature pleating technique to your own garments.

Haute couture at its best appears effortlessly glamorous. At the same time, it quietly flaunts its impeccable quality, as well as its creator’s artistry and mastery of form and materials. In my opinion, nothing illustrates consummate skill masked by apparent simplicity better than the exquisitely pleated, utterly timeless “Grecian” dresses of Madame Grès (pronounced “gray”). By finely pleating many yards of silk jersey to the body, shaping it to sweep over curves and fall in precise, narrow folds, Madame Grès created garments that respect the body and the fabric’s natural movement, give an impression of freedom and suppleness, and enhance the wearer’s beauty. On the following pages, you will learn how to manipulate fabric in the same way to create your own works of art.