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Stay the Fly and Anchor the Pockets

I’m working on copying this skirt for a client. She wants it in different colors, and it is no longer in production.

fly front closure example

It has jeans-style pockets and a fly-front opening.

While it is a ready-to-wear skirt, it has a nice interior pocket stay detail that extends across the front and finishes the fly-front opening.

Since I need to figure out how to construct this detail to duplicate the skirt, I’ll take you with me on my journey of discovery.

pockets inside the skirt sample

A look at the skirt’s interior shows that the stay extends from the side seam to the center zipper. It also functions as the back of the pocket.

On the zipper’s underlap side, the stay also creates the zipper shield/underlap.

pockets inside the skirt sample 2

The pocket front (facing) is a separate piece, which is the black fabric in the photo.

fly front closure seam sample

This skirt has a cut-on facing for the zipper overlap, which eliminates bulk at the center front. However, the body of the skirt still needs to be joined to the stay.

Move the facing edge so it falls to the side of the zipper. This key information is needed to draft the stay.

This is the top skirt front pattern draft. Notice the pockets’ design line, the pocket bag, and edge of the stay, are all drafted onto the skirt. Drawing these lines onto the draft helps to generate the different pattern pieces by tracing onto fresh paper.

When I draft and show patternmaking, the lines shown are finished stitching lines. The seam allowances are added later.

This skirt has different pattern pieces for the overlap and underlap sides.

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  1. user-3220369 | | #1

    Have a favorite skirt just like this. It is so comfortable and the panel helps with tummy control. Thank you for showing "how to" so I can make another. I was waiting for the skirt to die so I could deconstruct it! Now I don't have to wait.

  2. user-262254 | | #2

    Is there a pattern with this construction in it, without having to draft it?

  3. User avater
    kennethdking | | #3

    I don't know of a pattern that incorporates this detail, so that's why I had to figure out how to draft it. Easy enough to do!

    And yes, the stay is also flattering and tummy-controlling!

  4. firstsnow | | #4

    Love this! Can't wait to use it. I have seen something like this in ready-to-wear and can now use it in garment construction. Thank you Kenneth D. King! Really enjoy your contribution to Threads magazine.

  5. User avater
    kennethdking | | #5

    You're very welcome! I'm glad you enjoy reading my posts!

  6. leine | | #6

    Kenneth, as always, your tutorial is so very clear, and technique amazing. Thank you for sharing with us. Burda 6898 has a similar pocket stay and fly construction technique for the trousers. However, anyone can follow your instructions and easily draft their own from any pattern they are using, skirt or trousers.

  7. User avater
    kennethdking | | #7

    Thanks for that, Leine!

  8. ergore | | #8

    You are brilliant; your instructions are clear and easy to follow. Love the "tummy-control" aspect. Thanks so much.

  9. User avater
    CKsews | | #9

    Thank you, Kenneth! I have been looking for method to rework 2 wonderful ready-wear corduroy pants that need the waist area refitted from pleated-front design. This method with the full 'stay' incorporated with the pockets and zipper placement provides my answer. Your instructions are so clear and you are a treasure to all of us who love clothing construction! Of course, you also give us a great look at 'deconstructing' a ready-made in order to create pattern of same design as you intended - much appreciated!

  10. User avater
    kennethdking | | #10

    You're too kind!

    It was a "two-fee" I needed to figure out how to make this for my client, so sharing it was a bonus!

  11. User avater
    kennethdking | | #11

    The phrase is actually "two-fer"--autocorrect kicked in here!

  12. jcorte | | #12

    I really appreciate your teaching ability, which makes me feel that this task is doable. I love stays in pants and skirts, so your article was very instructive. Thank you again.

  13. User avater
    kennethdking | | #13

    Thanks for that Jcorte!

    It's all an acquired skill, and I'm glad that I can make it clear.

    I should also give a shout-out to Judy Neukam and Evamarie Gomez, who do the tech editing--they keep me on the rails and sounding intelligent!

  14. User avater
    user-2347320 | | #14

    could you use a lycra type fabric for the stay from the inside pocket edge to center front? Or would this pucker and get messy.

  15. User avater
    kennethdking | | #15

    My instinct says not to use lycra--the pull horizontally would cause the lycra to curl,and make a ridge inside the skirt. Stay with a woven fabric on this one.

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