Stay the Fly and Anchor the Pockets
I’m working on copying this skirt for a client. She wants it in different colors, and it is no longer in production.
It has jeans-style pockets and a fly-front opening.
While it is a ready-to-wear skirt, it has a nice interior pocket stay detail that extends across the front and finishes the fly-front opening.
Since I need to figure out how to construct this detail to duplicate the skirt, I’ll take you with me on my journey of discovery.
A look at the skirt’s interior shows that the stay extends from the side seam to the center zipper. It also functions as the back of the pocket.
On the zipper’s underlap side, the stay also creates the zipper shield/underlap.
The pocket front (facing) is a separate piece, which is the black fabric in the photo.
This skirt has a cut-on facing for the zipper overlap, which eliminates bulk at the center front. However, the body of the skirt still needs to be joined to the stay.
Move the facing edge so it falls to the side of the zipper. This key information is needed to draft the stay.
This is the top skirt front pattern draft. Notice the pockets’ design line, the pocket bag, and edge of the stay, are all drafted onto the skirt. Drawing these lines onto the draft helps to generate the different pattern pieces by tracing onto fresh paper.
When I draft and show patternmaking, the lines shown are finished stitching lines. The seam allowances are added later.
This skirt has different pattern pieces for the overlap and underlap sides.