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How to Weave Custom Trims (Passementerie)

Threads magazine - 175 - Oct./Nov. 2014
Choose the thread colors and gimp cord, then weave the perfect passementerie to trim your handmade garments. Pattern: Vogue 8677 (out of print). Fabric: from author’s stash. Trim: rayon, cotton, and metallic floss and mousetail cord. Photo: Jack Deutsch. Stylist: Jessica Saal. Hair and makeup: Patrycja for Halley Resources. Styling credits: Earrings and ring— Vince Camuto (Nordstrom.com), top—DKNYC (LordAndTaylor.com), pants—Nine West (DSW.com).

Synopsis: This article from Threads #175 (October/November 2014) by Daryl Lancaster will show you how to create your own trim styles. The French have a wonderful word for applied decorative trimmings: passementerie. It encompasses many forms of needlework used to create beautiful flat braids and woven round cords for trimming upholstery, pillows, draperies, and-best of all-garments. Weaving has endless trim design potential, and you can weave your own passementerie using a simple portable loom. With a small investment in equipment and some lovely threads, you can produce your own designer-style trim. This article will teach you the basic weaving process, and introduce you to incorporating gimp thread or cord so you can design customized trim.


The French have a wonderful word for applied decorative trimmings: passementerie. It encompasses many forms of needlework used to create beautiful flat braids and woven round cords for trimming upholstery, pillows, draperies, and—best of all—garments.

There are many methods for creating passementerie: Japanese kumihimo, crochet, macramé, and weaving. Weaving has endless trim design potential, and you can weave your own passementerie using a simple portable loom. With a small investment in equipment and some lovely threads, you can produce your own designer-style trim.

A small, portable inkle loom
A small, portable inkle loom is the key to customized woven trims. Loom: Inklette by Ashford Handicrafts, FoxgloveFiber.com.

The inlke loom

The inkle loom is the modern version of the small tape loom developed in the 16th century for weaving narrow bands, tapes, or ribbons, which were referred to as “inkles.” Weaving widths range from 2 inches to 9½ inches. The length you can weave also depends on the loom; smaller looms allow up to 72 inches and larger looms allow longer lengths. The braid’s design is created by weaving the lengthwise warp and crosswise weft threads together. An inkle…

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  1. user-1110045 | | #1

    Thank you for this article I had been wanting to know how to set up an inkle loom and weave with it for a very long time.

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