UPDATE: Threads Expert Chat with Louise Cutting is now closed and the DVD giveaway winners have been randomly selected. Congratulations to Threads online members riversilt, user-2463208, and pbeesley! The three winners will each receive one (1) copy of Louise’s all-new DVD Quick-To-Sew Pants.
Long-time Threads contributing editor, sewing instructor, and pattern designer Louise Cutting will be available to answer your sewing questions right here on ThreadsMagazine.com from 7 p.m. to 8 p.m., September 24.
As a bonus, chat participants will be entered automatically in a giveaway to win a copy of Louise’s all-new video Quick-to-Sew Pants. Three winners will be chosen at random, announced, and then contacted via email shortly after the chat has closed.
WHEN: 7 p.m. to 8 p.m. EST, September 24, 2014
WHERE: Visit ThreadsMagazine.com, and look for the official chat post.
CHAT GUIDELINES:
- You must have a ThreadsMagazine.com account to participate. If you don’t have one, please click here to sign up for your free account.
- Refresh your Web browser frequently to view new comments, questions, and answers.
- Due to time constraints, we ask that you keep your questions brief.
Louise, have you ever completed a garment that was less than
acceptable to you, if so, why was it disappointing, and what did you do with the "ole dog"?
Sure, the term 'what was I thinking' usually comes to mind. Sometimes it was the color, the fabric did so what I wanted...granted it has been a long time, but dogs go to the back of the closet...then off to good will...sorry, but I do cut off the buttons, (not their fault!
I'm here gang...don't forget to refresh often
Hi Louise. Do you have a good suggestion for turning sharp corners on denim? thanks
Sharp corners, Trim on the bias as usual...then look at the angle of the corner adn trim away more of the seam allowance in both directions...so when the fabric is turned and the seams are on the inside, they don't over lap in the corner. always press the seam allowances open over a point press...theis really helps. Turn using the Collins point turner...it looks like a white cuddle bone seen in bird cages. I have found it to be the best as far as turners. The when right side out and you like the corner...you might have to work it it for severl minutes...press like cazy...use the clapper parter of the point press to flatten the denim.
Thank you !!! It's obviously the overlap that I am doing wrong.
My daughter is looking at wedding dresses with big mermaid hems and clingy fabrics. She is relatively short and curvy. Any direction you can steer me to would be great.
I've started to check by folding the steam allowances while it is still wrong side out...just to see that no layer is on top of the other. you want them to butt against each other so there is also not a indent in the corner when turned right side out and pressed.
I've made your Pure and Simple blouse and have vertical folds down the back on each side. I have discovered I have flat shoulder blades. How would I alter the pattern before cutting to avoid these folds. I love the blouse. Thanks.
Hi Louise, for determining crotch length do you measure the entire length front to back? Or what is the best way to measure this for well-fitting pants?
Hi, Louise. When sewing for yourself, how many muslins do you usually need to make? Are you working off a sloper so that you know instantly what needs to be done!?
First, look for patterns that she would like the top...just about anything can be added to the bottom. Check in all sections of the pattern books. As far as the hem...you might actually have to check the costume section and see what they have. When you are making a muslin...don't do it out of muslin fabric. choose a fabric that will react like the end result...also remind her this is what she will be looking at in 25-50 years in the photos. Pull your book out and show her...not saying...but everything can become dated, But with a sample of a dress first, she might love it or decided to move on.
Vertical folds means something is too big...you might have to take it in for the upper back, but make sure you have enough across the hips. But moving the shoulders in-in the back the front has to correspond, at least in the shoulder line...then mov to another size to hit the hips.
Hi Louise, love your patterns and DVDs on techniques. I know you keep up with styles and trends and interpret them in your patterns, so what new pieces/coordinates would you recommend adding to my wardrobe using/sewing from your current patterns for fall/winter?
Crotch depth...for the One Seams, either style, and the My Swing Set pants...and the other in Cutting Line Designs...you want to give your self a very tight crotch meausrment...front your waist in the front between your legs to the wasit in the back....tie a 1/2" elastic around your waist to make sure you are starting and stopping in the right spot. don't give yourself any ease in that measurement. the Elastic I reccomend adnt the fabric will built that in...it also is the shape of teh crotch...mine has been proven with 69,000 patterns that it works. But if you are working with other patterns...if you are solid, give your self 1/2" of ease to that measuremnt and if you are 'fluffy' give your self 3/4" ease...but my patterns, none.
Do you sew for yourself for each season?
How many muslins do I make...none! I work form measurments. I measure my half body...side to side...the front and the back. then I measure the pattern. Always start with the finished garment measurments not the sizing chart. Then look for something you already own in a similar style and try it on and meausre it...so you like the fit...and go form there. When I draft the my patterns I di start ffrom a block/sloper, but I see it through to the conclusion. Then I make it in good fabric. I dont have time for muslins...if I want to try something out...I will find a similar weight of fabric...blouse-to-blouse or jacket-to-jacket fabric
When I first started the pattern line I jsut designed pieces...and started to see that a lot of the patterns didn't have anything to go with them...as time passed, those patterns were discontinued and as I developed new ones, I made sure that all tops went with all bottoms, and most blouses or shell could go under another piece...moving forward...I would say, look in your closet and see if you see something that has nothing to go with it and bring to the sewing room and start to see what you can sew to make the sad piece happy. I picked up the big vogue...I was surprised as the wearable styles...forget the shoes! but I did pull a few pages out.
I look through magazines like that a number of time...each time I look at only one thing. Pant widths...next hem lengths...next colors...next hand bags...this way you won't be overwhelmed with the whole look...and that is what they want you to do...see it all and you will ueually pass it by
Hi again Louise. When sewing jersey knits, I have to work very hard not to get a ripple in the hem. What am I doing wrong? Thanks
Sewign for myself for each season...I would love to. I live in the south...we have 2 seasons...winter that usually goes through on a Tuesday at 3pm and summer...so I am very heavy in linens and very light in winter clothes. I have so much on my plate that I relish time to sew. the past 2 years was making all the samples for the DVD's 6, 7, and coming out later this year or lealy next 8...I took a pix of every stepout to make sure I had everything needed for filming on my phone were 284 pix! then this past May was filming the DVD for the Pants and later in the fall the DVD will come out for the By Popular Demand Jacket...again there were 100's of 'step-outs' for filming.
When I do sew, it usually is making a sample from the draft of the next pattern to make sure it go together properly.
Plus running the business, teaching around the country, ther are times, I will tell friends I'm out of town, and I really home sewing...which I realy LOVE to do...I just love to sew!
Will you & Linda Lee be adding anything to the Shapes pattern line?
Of course, you are both so very busy, but that was a fun line to sew!
Do you have a favorite fabric with which to work, and which one do you find most troublesome?
EEK! sewing on knits! Not one of my favorites...I'm lumpy and bumpy and I find knits like to cling to me...so knit sewing is few and far between. But, I have serged 8 way stretch interfacing rotary cut the width of the hem. You want to serger it to the hem edge on the wrong side of the garment, but the interfacing will have the glue side up. Before you do all that, press the hem in place so the fold line is already there and you will see exactly the width you need to cut the interfacing.
Press the hem in place. the interfacing will stick to the garment and the hem will be up. the using a cover stitch or two rows of machine stitching (my preference) sew the hem in place. You might also try using wooly nylon or wooly poly in the bobbin, this way the hem will stretch and not pucker...but make a sample first.
Where is the ideal place to alter for a "saggy butt". It seems the older I get, the more everything starts heading south!
Louise, I really appreciate all the things you do for all of us who love to sew. I learn something new every time I attend one of your lectures or view your DVDs. You have enriched my sewing experience so very much. I teach basic sewing through our library system and you have made it so much easier for me to explain things to my students in a way they can understand and I know it will work for them. Thanks again for all you do.
Adding to Shapes line...I don't think so...she is doing some simple pattern that can be downloaded and I have been busy with the DVD's, bringing out new designs for 'CLD' and writing for Threads.
and the second question...favorite fabrics...Linen, linen, linen! It does what I want it to every time. Fabrics not favorites, only becasue I don't work with them enough...and the patterns in my line don't really cater to them would be knits, heavier wools, again because of not being in the north often in the winter months. The only time I really have to design items for a colder season is when I go to Puyallup in late Feb/early March.
Saggy butts...when it falls out the hem openings come and talk to me! But the best place is to take a horizontal dart in a working starter pair (notice, I didn't use the word muslin) ...you might need a sewing buddy for this...but it would be across the upper hip area. It will go down to nothing on the sides and be a bit deeper at the CB seam. remove this amount forom the pattern tissue...it's extra fabric that you don't need. All it does is sag and make the back side look even worse
Was not able to get into the chat with Louise cutting
At the expos I have seen layered, vented hems on many of your tops and even the pants. Do you have how-tos on your web site or a Threads article in the works to show us how to do them?
Celestia14, thank you for the nice comments. we all have to pass it forward. I am asked where I come up with this stuff...I have absoutely no idea...its just there adn sometime I surprise myself...but I am always snoop shopping for techniques and new ideas. But I had a mother, father, and grandmother who sewed...my own sewing machine at 3 years old...a real one in a cabinet...becasue a new one was purchased and this one was put in the paper to sell...never got sold. I was not allowed to use the iron...to this day I have no idea how the Ginny doll pants got fused to the bottom of the iron ;-)
I would love to attend one of your classes. Can you share where will you be teaching this winter?
I have been typing so fast to keep up...I'm sure they are typos aplenty.
@user-3365670: You still have time to ask Louise a question. Thanks!
Louise, I am making a bolero for a client out of lace that has quite a crisp hand. It is the lightest of pinks. I am thinking that I should serge the seams, quite narrowly, so that the seam will show minimally. Am I thinking correctly?
If the pattern has a vent, the miter has already been cut for you and the patterns explain exactly how to sew, press open the little seam and turn it.
where I am going to be in the fall...heading to Fredericksburg with fabric patterns etc and to teach at the sewing expo...then on to Ft Worth for the same show...both are on my website under events...then the FT Laud/Boca ASG to teach for several days down ther. that is pretty much it for the rest of the year...most of the time everything ends mid Nov and picks back up in Jan.
Have you discovered any new sewing tools that might be helpful to us? I use my Steam-A-Seam, point turner, and point/seam presser constantly as per your direction.
Thank you Louise for being so Accessible to your customers & fans!!! We miss you in Minnesota.
do u have occasion to come to the west coast- SF Bay area?
HI Louise,
My mom gave me a coat that she started some 30 years ago and couldn't finish. Surprise, surprise the style is back in. She did a wonderful job on bound button holes. However the pattern did not take into account the facing, which was sewn in after. This is my first dilemma.
How do I finish the hole through the facing?
AND
I want to alter the coat to bring in the waist line and cause the bottom to flair.
What do you suggest I do to alter the waist?
What lining should I use to support a flair along the bottom of the coat?
The pattern has some form fitting shape, it is very loose.
Large lapels, I love it.
Thanks,
Pam Rawlek
How think is the lace? I know Susan does great lesons on sewing with lace...if it is heavier, you might want to overlay and underlay the seams, if it is thinner, you might think about a narrow serger seam...but back it up with regualr sewing machine also. Lace could pull out of a narrow seam allowance.
Any plans to sell your fabrics on line (please, please, please)?
As I understand Steam a seam is coming back on the market in the fall...you e using the best of the best tools Velma
West coast...I was supposed to, but they couldn't pull it together...but ASG will be in San Diego in 2016.
How about coming to Iowa? (Cedar Rapids)
We miss you in Minnesota....in Nov...I don't own closed toed shoes!
selling fabric on line...stay tuned!
moms coat...to long to answer here. e-mail me and I'll try to help you out.
I'm outta here...you can always catch me on Artisian Square...or e-mail via the contact Louise on the home page of the website.
Back to play with the 3 new little Kittens I rescued...buttons, Bobbin, and Stitch!
Thank you Louise!
Thank you, Louise for your great advice and suggestions. And thanks to you all for participating in tonight's Expert Chat!
Winners of Louise's all-new video "Quick-to-Sew Pants" will be contacted via e-mail and announced shortly on this chat post. Stay tuned.