This article from Threads #178 (April/May 2015) by Judith Neukam is packed full of incredibly useful fitting know-how.

A good fit is the holy grail of fine sewing. Of course, starting with the right pattern size is fundamental. Even if you know which circumference changes to make on the pattern, there are two areas often overlooked in fitting until the muslin stage: establishing the right shoulder slope and the correct body lengths. Try these corrections before cutting the muslin to simplify and improve your fitting success. Every person has unique proportions, and that’s why standardized patterns need adjustments. The correct shoulder slope, for example, is important because the whole garment hangs from the shoulders. It is essential for a good fit. Then, adjust the lengths after the shoulder slope but before any other alterations. By following this order, all of your fitting challenges are simplified.

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