The pattern work is done and it’s time to cut the fabric and construct the interior facing and sleeve.
Face the coat body armhole
Cut the coat body pieces from the wool, and the armhole facing from lining fabric. In the examples shown, I used muslin to represent the wool coat fabric, and a black textile to represent the lining fabric.
Sew the side seam on the armohole facing, and sew the shoulder and side seams on the coat body.
With right sides together, pin and sew the armhole facing to the coat armhole. Turn the facing into the armhole. Press.
Topstitch the facing to the armhole 1/4 inch from the armhole edge. Mark the red topstitching line (indicated by the arrow) and two other topstitching lines, each 1/4 inch apart.
Sew the decorative topstitching first. The line indicated by the arrow is the red topstitching line and isn’t sewn yet. The other lines are topstitched.
Construct the interior facing
Cut the back piece from lining and wool. Layer the back lining and wool pieces with wrong sides together. Pin in place, or baste if you need to, then treat the layers as one throughout the rest of the construction.
With right sides together, sew the back to the front at the shoulder and side seams. Press.
Install the completed sleeve into the interior facing piece. Position the sleeve’s right side to the interior facing’s wrong side.
With right sides together, pin the facing to the body at center front and sew. When you are making the actual coat, attach the collar to the neckline at this time, then pin the facing to the body, as described.
Press the seam allowances toward the facing, and turn the facing to the inside of the coat.
When you turn the…