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The Loden Coat Sleeve, Part 2

The pattern work is done and it’s time to cut the fabric and construct the interior facing and sleeve.

Face the coat body armhole

Cut the coat body pieces from the wool, and the armhole facing from lining fabric. In the examples shown, I used muslin to represent the wool coat fabric, and a black textile to represent the lining fabric.

the loden sleeve, part 2 armhole

Sew the side seam on the armohole facing, and sew the shoulder and side seams on the coat body.

the loden sleeve, part 2 sew facing to armhole and press

With right sides together, pin and sew the armhole facing to the coat armhole. Turn the facing into the armhole. Press.

the loden sleeve, part 2 topstitching facing to armhole

Topstitch the facing to the armhole 1/4 inch from the armhole edge. Mark the red topstitching line (indicated by the arrow) and two other topstitching lines, each 1/4 inch apart.

the loden sleeve, part 2 sew decorative topstitching

Sew the decorative topstitching first. The line indicated by the arrow is the red topstitching line and isn’t sewn yet. The other lines are topstitched.

Construct the interior facing

Cut the back piece from lining and wool. Layer the back lining and wool pieces with wrong sides together. Pin in place, or baste if you need to, then treat the layers as one throughout the rest of the construction.

the loden sleeve, part 2 sew shoulder and sleeve seams

With right sides together, sew the back to the front at the shoulder and side seams. Press.

the loden sleeve, part 2 install completed sleeve into interior facing

Install the completed sleeve into the interior facing piece. Position the sleeve’s right side to the interior facing’s wrong side.

the loden sleeve, part 2 pin facing to body

With right sides together, pin the facing to the body at center front and sew. When you are making the actual coat, attach the collar to the neckline at this time, then pin the facing to the body, as described.

the loden sleeve, part 2 press facing back into position

Press the seam allowances toward the facing, and turn the facing to the inside of the coat.

When you turn the…

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  1. User avater
    jennyebner | | #1

    I love the way you did this, and I am anxious to try it.
    Thanks again so much.

  2. User avater
    kennethdking | | #2

    Glad you enjoyed it, Jenny--I look forward to seeing what you make with it!

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