Couture Zipper Fly
This article from Threads #186 (August/September 2016) describes a very precise method of sewing a fly zipper. In this procedure, the fly opening is machine-topstitched without the zipper. Then the zipper is sewn into the opening by hand. This may seem silly, but it works well for most fabrics, especially very thick ones. On the overlap, it eliminates the problem of machine topstitching over the zipper teeth at the bottom, and provides greater control and accuracy at all stages of the zipper insertion.
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