Kenneth D. King on Fitting and Fashion | Episode 6Threads Contributing Editor Kenneth D. King talks about his new fitting book and fashion icons.
In Episode 6, Threads Contributing Editor Kenneth D. King talks about fitting principles from his book Kenneth D. King’s Smart Fitting Solutions: Foolproof Techniques to Fit Any Figure (The Taunton Press, 2018) with Threads Editor Sarah McFarland and Threads Senior Technical Editor Carol J. Fresia.
During the conversation, Kenneth names Madeleine Vionnet and Charles James as two fashion designers who have inspired him. Threads has written about both in print:
“Vionnet: Master Geometrician” by Sandra Ericson, Threads #147, Feb./March 2010
“Charles James” by Claire Shaeffer, Threads #159, Feb./March 2012
Read more about James in these Threads online articles:
“Charles James: The Exhibition”
“Charles James at the Met’s Costume Institute”
Listen now (click on play button below) to find out who is Kenneth’s favorite fashion icon and all about his favorite summer accessory. The podcast is also available on iTunes, Stitcher, and Google Play or can be downloaded.
Kenneth talks about using the moulage and sloper to achieve a good fit. To understand more about these terms, see “Sloper Solutions” by Judith Neukam, Threads #194, Dec. 2017/Jan. 2018 and “Fit with Your Sloper,” by Lynda Maynard, Threads #190, April/May 2017.
Kenneth offers several suggestions for where to find a fitting buddy or to get professional help for fitting yourself:
Association for Sewing and Design Professionals
Sit-and-sew sessions with Kenneth
Kenneth’s approach to fitting and adjusting a pattern is also detailed in his video series Smart Fitting with Kenneth D. King and a series of Smart Fitting articles in Threads #147 through #150. In Part 1, “A New Approach to Fitting,” Threads #147, Feb./March 2010, Kenneth explains his concepts of net gain, net loss, and no net change.
A marking product Kenneth uses when working with wool fabrics is #999 SLO Perfection Master Disappearing Chalk.
The topic of pins and basting was also discussed in the podcast.
The Sewing With Threads podcast is sponsored by KaiScissors.com.
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When I make a muslin I use fabrics I got for cheap, and then end up with more jammies. I just made a pair where I got too nutsy with adding ease, so now I need to reduce the size of that tent. Lesson learned.
One reason is that I went to a fitting class to make a sloper, and did not realize it already had ease. Oops. Thank you for that clarification.
I also try to use fabrics that have the weight of the what the final fabric will be. I use light canvas for jacket muslins, and cheap knits for T-shirts.
I have just finished a muslin of inexpensive sheer silk in preparation for a light overcoat for summer wedding. I took notes of how to change it when I cut into the actual fabric. Like gathering the light silk and then sewing it on some organza before piecing to the other piece. Also, I tried someone's idea to spray liquid stabilizer on to control the fabric, which made it harder to actually work with.
I just discovered these podcasts, I love them! Kenneth, I would love to take a fitting workshop with you in Central California! Do you ever come to Sacramento or San Francisco?