The Coat Edit
When fashion icon and Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour was made a dame by Queen Elizabeth II at Buckingham Palace in 2017, she wore a covetable coat designed by Chanel. I will never receive that honor, but I can have the coat—or a reasonable facsimile thereof. So can you, with this simple pattern adjustment.
The coat’s salient feature is a pair of diagonal pleats extending from the center-front waistline toward each hip. The lower half opens at center front with abutted edges; the bodice is double-breasted with a collar that can be worn buttoned to the neck, or open to create lapels.
To mimic this look, start with a double-breasted coat pattern that has a waist seam and an A-line skirt. I used Vogue 9157, but Lekala 4192 would also work. I changed only the skirt front and front lining pattern pieces. (If your pattern has a different skirt shape, you may need to make additional changes.) You’ll follow a different construction sequence to handle the front configuration, but it’s not difficult or time-consuming.
The original coat was shown on the runway with a matching skirt, which showed at the center front. The style is so versatile that you can live your fashion journalism dream by pairing it with a contrasting dress or skirt, tailored slacks, or even jeans.
Carol J. Fresia is Threads’ senior technical editor. This article first appeared in Issue 200 as ‘The Coat Edit’.
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I subscribe to the print magazine, so I have the actual directions for modifying the Chanel-style coat, but I can't get the 360 degree view to come up online. I was hoping to see the back of the coat, as well as to see whether I will be able to slip some invisible pockets into the side seams without ruining the drape of the garment.
Hi, Camoo,
Thank you for letting us know the link to the 360-degree view wasn't working. I just corrected it, so you should be able to view it now. You can certainly add side-seam pockets, which are not included in the original pattern. The coat's skirt portion is A-line, so there shouldn't be a problem accommodating a pocket. If I recall correctly, the original pattern had an optional back belt, which we didn't include here. I love this pattern--it's got a pretty forgiving fit, with the raglan sleeves and flared skirt, and it has a nice, classic look with some good detail options.
Carol Fresia
Threads Senior Technical Editor