Quick Fixes for Jackets
How a TV tailor takes in a garment without side seams
I’ve worked as a tailor and patternmaker for film and television for more than 25 years. During that time, I have altered many men’s and women’s suit jackets and developed techniques for making common fitting alterations as efficiently as possible. One of my favorites is what I call the dart-and-drop technique; I’ve turned to it on many occasions.
This adjustment solves a common fit issue: the need to take a jacket in through the body. The most obvious approach is to reduce the circumference at the side seams. However, this isn’t always feasible: Many suit jackets have a side panel, which places seams at the side front and side back rather than down the side of the body. A jacket’s side-front seams are not easily alterable because the seam usually runs into a pocket. Plus, there’s often interfacing or canvas structure attached to the jacket front.…
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