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Pattern Roundup: Outerwear

The Kelly Anorak coat from Closet Case Patterns is unlined and features a two-piece cuffed sleeve, optional drawstring waist, flap pocket with gusset, and center-front zipper closure with snap button placket. It also has the option for a hood. There is an optional pattern add-on that provides a lining pattern. Suggested fabrics include light- to medium-weight wovens such as twill, gabardine, and linen, or waterproof fabric such as ripstop or Gore-Tex.

A good coat is a must in the cold winter months. Depending on how cold it gets where you live, you can need anything from a long, thick cardigan to a hefty jacket fit for a blizzard. There are plenty of coat patterns and styles, and even more options when you consider what kinds of materials are available.

Some of these patterns can be adapted to work for different seasons depending on the fabric’s weight and type. Unlined coats in particular are simple to make in lighter fabrics, although you will likely need to make adjustments in size to compensate for the lack of fabric bulk. Use the pattern’s suggested fabrics to get an idea of how much drape the garment needs, and select lighter fabrics with similar drape for the best result.

If you’ve fallen in love with a fabric that’s not thick enough for a coat, check out Mary Ray’s article, “Underlining with Fusible Interfacing” for information about how fusible interfacing can help support the fabric.

The Scoop on Linings,” by Sandi Bolton, takes you through different lining materials and how they can be used. For a thicker coat, use thicker lining fabrics such as flannel or brocade to create beautiful, warm garments.

Wool is a classic coating fabric. Check out Linda Siegel’s “Wool Fabric Guide: Easiest to Most Difficult to Sew” for information about different wool fabrics.

For Insiders:

If you need help fitting the sleeves on your coats, “A Fresh Way to Fit a Sleeve,” by Kenneth D. King, first published in Threads #183 (Feb./March 2016), may be useful.

Secure a Coat Lining,” by Jacque Goldsmith, from Threads #176 (Dec. 2016/Jan.2017), explores a couture technique for securing free-hanging coat linings.

Click “Launch Gallery” below to see 10 cozy outerwear options.


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