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Essential Techniques: Set Sleeves Expertly

Threads #202, April/May 2019
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A skillfully set-in sleeve using professional techniques enhances any garment you sew. Even if you’re venturing into tailoring territory for the first time, you can master this process and create jackets, coats, and other garments that surpass costly ready-to-wear pieces.
The hallmark of a well-set sleeve is a smooth sleeve cap, free of puckers or tucks in the armscye seam. It curves softly over the upper shoulder and may be supported by a sleeve head or an added shoulder pad or shaper.

Often, a commercial pattern’s sleeve cap has more ease than can be handled in your chosen fashion fabric. I’ll show you how to determine the existing ease amount and how to reduce it for a more realistic sleeve-to-armscye ratio. This pattern adjustment helps you achieve a well-sewn sleeve with minimal difficulty.

I’ll explain the proper steps to insert a tailored sleeve and share the method…

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