In-seam pockets in pants and skirts offer discreet convenience. However, they can sometimes be bulky and be more visible than you would like. Louise Cutting, a Threads contributing editor, shows how to revise the pocket construction to eliminate a seam and one layer of the pocket pouch; the trade-off is in a nearly imperceptible line of topstitching on the garment front.

Adapt the pattern and construction

In this method, the back pocket pouch pattern is grafted to the garment back at the side seam, which gets rid of one attachment seam. The front pocket pouch is eliminated entirely. Louise explains where and how to apply essential stabilization, through staystitching and interfacing. She also shows where to clip the seam allowances so the pocket elements can be folded into position.

Complete the pocket

After the side seams are sewn, the back pocket pouch is folded toward the front and topstitched in place to the garment front’s wrong side. The finished pocket lies flat along the side seam and front. There’s no seam allowance along the side seam to create ripples or unflattering ridges.

Louise demonstrates this process on her “My Swing Set” pants-and-jacket pattern. You can adapt it to any pant or skirt design that includes in-seam pockets. If your pattern has no pockets, you can draft your own, in the desired shape, and add functionality to your garments.