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Remove Excess Fabric from the Neckline | Video

A common fit problem in garments with a round or scooped neckline is gaping along the neck edge. Threads Contributing Editor Louise Cutting offers two methods for reducing the excess neckline circumference in a pattern.

Remove from the center front

One approach calls for cutting a line from the pattern’s neck edge to the hem, about 2 inches from center front and parallel to the grainline. Leave a hinge at the hemline. Overlap the strip’s neckline end by half the total amount of excess you wish to remove. This eliminates a gap that’s near center front or the lower curve of the neckline.

Remove near the shoulder

The other approach removes excess a little higher up the neckline, closer to the shoulder seam. Make a cut across the shoulder portion of the pattern, from the neckline to the about halfway up the armscye, leaving a hinge at the armscye edge. Overlap the shoulder portion by half the needed reduction.

In both cases, redraw the neckline edge for a smooth curve. Adjust any facing or binding patterns to match the new neckline shape.

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About This Video Series

Louise Cutting, a Threads contributing editor, is a renowned designer and teacher. She focuses on industry sewing techniques that help home sewers achieve a professional result. In Volume 8 of her popular Industry Insider Techniques video series, Louise shares methods for improving your garments with precision construction tips, design ideas, and better closures. This volume includes the following 12 videos: Put a Dart on the Slant Reduce Pocket Bulk Trim a Dolman Sleeve Proper Corner…

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  1. User avater
    blbirdsong | | #1

    Keep in mind that if you remove the excess from near the center front line (method 1), you will also be reducing the bust measurement. So the second method may be a better option if you are full busted.

  2. user-7225691 | | #2

    I agree with blbirdsong.. The gaping happens because of the inadequate bust fitting dart. A better solution would be adding this excess to the bust dart or creating a dart to eliminate neckline gap. This also works with armhole gaping with sleeveless designs.

  3. sewitfits | | #3

    So...with this technique, when I start to lay pattern piece down on the fold, I do lay it straight on the fold? And will this not distort the shoulder and sides? OR, although the alteration that was done makes the pattern appear off, is it part of the reshaping to more closely fit to the body?

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