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Frame an In-Seam Pocket

Threads #204, Aug./Sep. 2019
Details Book The Sue Ann Genet Costume Collection

An in-seam pocket is typically almost invisible. Although it is subtle, it provides a convenient storage place for necessities. Inspired by the inventive pocket on the circa 1970 jacket on the back cover, I reasoned out how to add a frame around an in-seam pocket. This enhances the pocket as a design feature and supports the pocket edge.

An in-seam pocket is often cut in one with the adjacent garment sections and sewn in one pass: down the seam, around the pocket bag, and down the rest of the seam. The pocket in this suit is cut in a hybrid fashion: The pocket bag front is cut separately and attached to the framed opening. The pocket bag back is cut in one with the garment’s back section, so it extends seamlessly into the pocket.
You can make the frame any shape that suits your style and fabric. Design it so the opening edge is at least 3/4 inch from the garment seamline, which makes the pocket easy to use and looks attractive. Test topstitching needles and threads to get the look you want for your garment.

pocket back or 'bag'

Contributing Editor Judith Neukam enjoys analyzing garment details that look great and make clothes more functional.

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